While everyone flocks to the Museo Frida Kahlo when spending time in Mexico City’s Coyoacan, there is another small house just a few blocks away that contains another museum worth checking out. Most people don’t think of Leon Trotsky when picturing Mexico City, however it …
Ask anyone that knows anything about Mexican art and culture, and you’ll quickly hear about Frida Kahlo. The renowned artist lived a life of adversity and heartbreak while producing incredible works and becoming a Mexican icon internationally. It probably comes as no surprise that the …
The National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Spanish) is an essential stop on your Mexico City itinerary. As the most visited museum in the city with the most museums in the world, I consider this to be one of the most interesting museums I’ve ever been to. Its massive collection of artefacts and antiquities has enthralled guests at its current location since 1964. Its truly a world class institution that should make any list of the world’s best museums. If I haven’t convinced you to visit the National Museum of Anthropology yet, hopefully this post will provide a sample of whats inside to pique your curiosity. There’s no place better to get an understanding of pre-Hispanic Mexico and its varying myriad of cultures and civilisations.
Being just beyond the Bosque de Chapultepec, the National Museum of Anthropology is the perfect addition to a day spent taking in the famous park’s attractions. You should count on spending at least a few hours though, as there is so much to see in this museum. I headed to the Anthropology Museum around midday and spent the better part of the afternoon there, including a delicious lunch at the on-site restaurant. While I visited later in the day than usual (I normally aim to hit up major museums early to beat the crowds), I didn’t find guest levels to be too unbearable. At the time of my visit, I had to queue up to purchase tickets (it didn’t take long), but it looks like you can actually now buy admission tickets on the official website.
The Museum’s entrance hall contains a space for temporary exhibits, but there’s so much to see in the permanent collection that if you’re time pressed you’ll probably have to skip over these. I do recommend checking out the brief film in the Introductory Hall though. It sets the context for what you’ll see throughout the museum while a model of Tenochtitlan (the Aztec capital that sits below Mexico City) comes to life.
From there, you’ll head outside into the Museum’s main courtyard. Its surrounded by the various exhibit halls, but before diving in, you can’t miss the massive water feature in the middle. Consisting of a gigantic column, the umbrella (el paraguas), supports an 84 metre long stone canopy. The canopy is the world’s largest concrete structure supported by a single pillar (don’t worry, its survived earthquakes!). With water gushing down, the column is decorated with carvings depicting Mexico’s pre-Hispanic history, while emphasising the overarching importance of nature.
The National Museum of Anthropology’s permanent collection spans 22 halls across two levels. The ground floor covers the archeological side of the museum, and is where you’ll want to spend the majority of your time. By touring this floor, you’ll come across the various groups that developed and thrived in Pre-Hispanic Mexico. The upper floor halls, dedicated to ethnography are worth checking out if you have more time. They focus on modern life for the descendants of Mexico’s indigenous groups. Regardless of where you are in the Museum, you’ll find the exhibits have excellent signage in both English and Spanish.
The best way to tackle the first floor of the National Museum of Anthropology is by taking a counter-clockwise tour of the various halls, following the numbering on your map. The first set of halls (1 to 3) consist of an introduction to the study of anthropology and the expansion of human settlement across the American continent. You’ll learn of the way in which the Americas were originally populated by people from north and north-eastern Asia moving across land bridges some 40,000 years ago. Many of these people settled in the region that we know today as Mesoamerica (consisting of Mexico and neighbouring countries in Central America).
Initially hunter-gatherers, these early people developed subsistence agriculture and eventually formed a series of early communities in Mexico’s Central Highlands. This Pre-Classical period (2500 BC to AD 100) saw various societies flourish. From around 600 BC, there was already evidence of these people worshipping key gods in the Mesoamerican pantheon such as Huehueteotl and Tlaloc. Various artefacts dating back from this era can be found in this section of the museum. The part of this collection that I found most interesting was the excavation of a burial place from Tlatilco. Over 500 human burials were found over four excavation seasons at this Preclassical site.
The first major highlight of the Museum is the hall dedicated to the ancient civilisation of Teotihuacan. Spanning the period 100 BC to AD 800, Teotihuacan is one of the most important sites of Classical Mesoamerica. Even after its fall, it was referred to by the Aztecs as the “place where men became gods” and inspired them and various other groups through architecture, religious symbolism and other practices. Teotihuacan is just north-east of Mexico City and is one of the best day trips you can take from the city. It was one of my favourite places in Mexico, and going there made the displays in this part of the National Museum of Anthropology that much more interesting to me.
The Teotihuacan collection is dominated by the huge stone facade of the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, one of three major pyramids that can be visited at the site today. Unlike the remains of Teotihuacan’s archeological site however, the reproductions on display in the Museum of Anthropology are vibrantly coloured. The blue and red paints provide some idea as to what the city would have looked like during its peak before falling into a mysterious decline. There’s original artefacts on display as well, perhaps most notably a huge statue of the war goddess Chalchiuhtlicue, which was found at the foot of the site’s Pyramid of the Moon.
One of the things I like about the Museum of Anthropology is that a number of its exhibits make use of the surrounding outdoor space. Teotihuacan’s exhibit does that with a massive scale model of the entire city. While you’ll see something similar at the site museum if you visit the Pyramids themselves, its definitely worth getting out in the fresh air to see it here.
Moving onwards, the next hall in the Museum focuses on the groups that rose to prominence in Mexico’s Epi-Classical era. Initially independent centres such as Xochicalco, Cantolona and Cacaxtla emerged, however it were the Toltecs who are most associated with this period, spanning from AD 700 – 1200. Based from the Central Plateau city of Tula, the Toltecs gained a reputation for their military prowess and arts (fun fact: the word Toltec actually translates to “Artist”). The most prominent pieces in the collection from the Toltecs are their towering stone warrior columns. Excavated from sites such as the Temple of Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli, the Atlante column provides an example, carved in the shape of a divine warrior and said to illustrate the power of the military caste of a city founded by Quetzalcoatl himself. In addition to the monument, many other stone objects can be seen including serpent depictions and a Chac-mool figure.
If you’ve only got time to visit one exhibit in the National Museum of Anthropology, you’ll want to make it the Hall of the Aztecs. Focusing on one of Mexico’s most famous civilisations, this is the Museum’s largest hall and contains an abundance of displays, relics and artefacts from the empire that ruled over much of Mexico by the time Hernan Cortez arrived in 1519. The collection is broken up into various sections, focusing on multifaceted aspects such as Aztec deities, their rulers, war and conquest, and the importance of blood sacrifices.
The right side of the Hall of the Aztecs focuses on everyday life and their might in battle. The Stone of Tizoc records the victories of the Aztec’s seventh ruler, while other sculptures depict ordinary Mexica, such as the nobles adorned in robes indicative of their ranks. Many of the artefacts contained in the hall were excavated from Mexico City itself, as the Zocalo was built atop the Templo Mayor in the Aztec capital of Tenochtitlan. A large model of the complex can be seen in the hall depicting what the city would have looked like when the Spanish arrived.
On the left side, the collection focuses on Aztec religious ceremonies and beliefs. Numerous gods are depicted, while a stone altar is also laid out on display. These altars were used to stretch out the victims of human sacrifice so their hearts could be removed and stored in stone vessel (such as the Ocelotl-Cuauhxicalli receptacle on display). Other ceremonial pieces include a replica of the headdress worn by the Aztec leader Moctezuma II, one of the most famous rulers in Aztec history (the original headpiece is now in Austria).
The most important relic in the Hall of Aztecs has to be the Piedra del Sol (Sun Stone). Unearthed from the Zocalo in 1790, it depicts various Aztec deities. With a diameter of 3.6 metres and weighing in at 24 tons, the circular stone holds a prominent position in the middle of the hall and attracts its fair share of admirers. It actually bears a resemblance to the cyclical Mayan calendars, and was originally thought to be a calendar too, though this has since been disproven. While the purpose of the Sun Stone remains unknown, the carvings and symbols that adorn it emphasise the importance of the sun in connection with the beginning and end of the Aztec world. An image of the Sun God Tonatiuh occupies the middle of the stone, and the stone in general has become something of an unofficial symbol of Mexican culture.
The remainder of the exhibit halls on the ground floor of the National Museum of Anthropology focus on the civilisations that rose to prominence across regions of Mexico beyond the Central Highlands. The first region showcased is Oaxaca. Located to the south of the country, two great cultures flourished in this region in Pre-Hispanic times. In this hall, you’ll learn about the Zapotecs (builders of the hilltop city Monte Alban) and their successors, the Mixtecs (who preferred to live in the mountainous and coastal areas of the region. These two civilisations dominated Oaxaca from before 1000BC to the early 16th century.
As with other civilisations showcased throughout the Museum, those of Oaxaca are highlighted through a collection of ceramics. Zapotec arts in particular are represented by various urns and receptacles themed around animals, humans and gods. The highlight of the collection has to be the reconstruction of Tomb 104 of Monte Alban though, complete with offerings to the dead and an assortment of crafted vessels.
Moving onwards, your journey through the Museum takes you further north to the region of Mexico sitting along the shores of the Gulf. While a range of civilisations came to dominate this region throughout history, including the Totonac and Huastec, the best known are the Olmecs. Even if you haven’t heard of the Olmecs, you’ll surely be familiar with their most famous monuments – a collection of Olmec Heads that each weigh almost 20 tons! Dating back to the Preclassical period, the Olmecs were based on the southern Gulf coast from around 1200 to 600 BC and were key players in establishing urban centers such as La Venta in Tabasco and San Loreno in Veracruz.
The Maya certainly need no introduction, but there’s plenty to learn about them in their exhibit at the National Museum of Anthropology. One of the most famous pre-Hispanic Mexican cultures, the Maya came to prominence in the Yucatan peninsular, as well as neighbouring Guatemala, Belize and Honduras. There’s so many Mayan sites that you can visit throughout Mesoamerica, and the collection of carved stelae and other pieces of art, sculptures and carvings gives you a great overview. You’ll see great diversity in the objects on display, which makes sense considering the Maya culture developed from the pre-Classic to post-Classic periods. spanning across 1500 years of history. In that time, they developed complex writing systems documenting their traditions, which has provided historians with much to decipher and learn about their beliefs and practices.
One of the most impressive features of the Museum’s Maya collection is the reconstruction of the royal tomb of King Pakal, one of the most important Mayan rulers. The original was found underneath the Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque (in the Chiapas region). It was discovered in the 1950s and immediately dazzled its discoverers with its collection of Mayan jewels and craftwork.
The Maya collection also extends outside. In the Museum’s gardens you’ll find recreations of various ceremonial buildings from Mayan sites. The most significant of these is the full-size version of the Temple of the Frescoes of Bonampak. Inside, vibrantly distinct paintings of various Maya warlords can be observed. Can I mention again how much I loved the immersive nature of this Museum?
After being through the rest of the Museum, the last couple of halls won’t blow you away, but you’ll need to stop by quickly to complete your tour of the regions of Mexico. Covering the more sparsely populated northern deserts and Pacific coast, here you’ll learn about the groups that developed here. Unfortunately, not as many characteristic civilisations were based here compared to the rest of Mexico, though you will see displays focusing on settlements such as Paqima and Alta Vista, as well as the Tarascans. Honestly, I rushed through this section of the Museum (I was ready for lunch!), but for a comprehensive look at this less famous region of pre-Hispanic Mexico, this is the place to come.
If you’re still wanting more after touring the ground floor of the National Museum of Anthropology, head upstairs to the Ethnography Halls. This upper level is comprised of 11 more permanent displays. The series of interconnected rooms focus on various aspects of life for various ethnic groups across the country. Over 58 indigenous groups are recognised in Mexico today, and as you wander the halls here you’ll be able to learn about their cultures and practices. The halls are filled with traditional buildings, textiles and costumes, pottery, masks, furnishings and much more. I only took a quick walk through this level of the Museum (most first time visitors will probably do the same). There’s numerous dioramas that are interesting to check out while you do so though – they range from performing mariachi bands to Day of the Dead ofrendas, and literally everything in between.
With so much to see, a visit to the National Museum of Anthropology can be overwhelming, but there’s no better place to learn about the diversity of cultures that comprised Mexico prior to the arrival of the Spaniards. With so many displays, there’s no knowing what you’ll come across if you dive into the Museum’s collection, and I recommend everyone heading to Mexico City stop by for a few hours. What cultures or civilisations are you keen to learn about when travelling to Mexico?
The Pyramids of Teotihuacan are the remains of an ancient civilisation. Found just outside of modern day Mexico City, the UNESCO site is one of the most extensively explored archeological sites in Mesoamerica and so easy to visit on a half-day trip from Mexico’s capital. …
You must visit Castillo de Chapultepec when in Mexico City. After all, it is the only castle in North America to ever house royalty. The castle sits at the highest point of Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest park. This massive public space is even …
The Palacio de Bellas Artes is one of the most famous buildings in Mexico City. In my opinion, its also the most beautiful. This elaborate theatre is right on the western edge of the Mexican capital’s Historic District and has become a major hub of the city’s arts scene. I walked past the Palacio de Bellas Artes numerous times on my visit to Mexico City, and every time I had to stop to take in the view. I’m sure you’ll find yourself doing the same in Mexico City. It would be a shame to just take in Bellas Artes’ facade from the outside though. The interior of the building contains some of the finest murals and other artworks that you’ll find in Mexico. Take the time to go inside and see them for yourself!
The Palacio de Bellas Artes was first commissioned by President Porfirio Diaz in 1905 to serve as a city concert hall. It was designed by the Italian architect, Adamo Boari. Boari drew from the Art Nouveau and Neo-Classical styles to create a marble palace with a number of cupolas covered by orange and yellow tiles. The largest cupola, the central dome, would bear a Mexican eagle sculpture, surrounded by various figures from the dramatic arts. Construction was not straightforward however, with Mexico City’s spongy soil causing the marble shell to sink in. The Mexican Revolution also broke out in 1910, which put a halt on the project.
Post- Revolution, the interior of the Palacio de Bellas Artes was designed by Federico Mariscal. His vision saw a complete contrast to the exterior. The inside of the building was filled with Art Deco influence in the way of coloured geometrical shapes and crystal chandeliers. The project was finally completed in 1934.
The Palacio de Bellas Artes has since evolved into a highly respected institution, hosting live performances such as seasonal opera and the National Symphonic Orchestra. It also houses the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico twice a week, whose offerings showcase various cultural dances ranging from pre to post-Hispanic Mexican history. Going to a show at Bellas Artes is also the only way you’ll be able to see the famous stained glass curtain inside the main auditorium. It was designed by Gerard Murillo (Dr Atl) and assembled from millions of coloured pieces of Tiffany & Co glass.
The main reason to come to Bellas Artes as a tourist is to see the outstanding collection of murals on the walls of the main atrium. They line the exterior of the second and third floor. You’ll have to buy a ticket to gain entry (you can’t see much from the ground floor). You buy your ticket from counters in the building’s entry lobby. The best pieces of art can be found on the third level of Bellas Artes. I recommend spending time up here to admire them all, but I’ll focus on a few notable pieces.
The oldest mural in Palacio de Bellas Artes is this 1928 work by Roberto Montenegro. Translating to ‘Allegory of the Wind, or the Angel of Peace, or Aviation’, there’s no missing the depiction of a giant angel, which fills most of the piece. Underneath the wing spreading figure, you can see personifications of the wind blowing from beneath. Unlike many of the other murals in the theatre, the work doesn’t contain a deeper narrative. The straight lines in the work match the art deco interior of the theatre however. It wasn’t commissioned for Bellas Artes though. It was actually transferred here from the former Colegio Maximo de San Pedro y San Pablo (being the only mural from there that could survive the humidity of the new location). Regardless, its a piece fitting of the grandeur of its new home.
Perhaps the most famous mural at Bellas Artes is this 1934 work by Diego Rivera. It depicts a battle between capitalism and communism, with key figures from both sides of the political spectrum recognisable in the mural. This mural is most known for being Rivera’s act of revenge against John Rockefeller of New York fame. The artist had originally been commissioned to create a similar mural in the Rockefeller Center, however the commissioning magnate would have it destroyed prior to completion over its representation of Lenin and other communist themes. Rockefeller himself can be seen in the Bellas Artes version. He is socialising amongst the rich and famous, underneath a swath of parasitic cells. Point made, Diego.
Another political piece by Rivera here, this one consisting of four parts. There’s a similar story behind their inception as well. Diego was commissioned by Alberto Pani to create a series of works for his Hotel Reforma. Once again, the controversial artist inserted a number of controversial images. This time, he satirised white tourists depicting them as clowns and animals. Pani actually modified the mural to get rid of these images, but was sued by Rivera, who subsequently was able to restore the artwork in its original form. While the hotel responded by sticking the pieces into storage, they ultimately made their way to Bellas Artes in 1963.
Another artist that is heavily represented in the Palacio de Bellas Artes is David Alfaro Siqueiros. One of his more prominent works is the so-called ‘New Democracy’, in which a naked woman is shown attempting to break free from her chains. It was painted after the Second World War, supposedly to celebrate the triumph of democracy over fascism. Like many pieces on display in Bellas Artes today, the mural painting was criticised at the time of its creation, but now occupies a central spot in the gallery.
Finally, we’ve got another piece by David Alfaro Siqueiros, though its actually made of two contrasting panels. One panel is a representation of the historical Spanish conquest over the Aztecs. Their ruler, Cuauhtemoc, is shown being tortured by flames until he reveals the location of his people’s treasures. The other image depicts an alternate reality, one where the Aztecs were victorious against the Conquistadors. In that piece, the Aztec ruler is shown standing tall against the Spaniards. In this work, Cuauhtemoc stands tall in the face of his attackers, defend his empire. Its rather interesting to see the two works side by side, created by the same artist. It really exemplifies the way in which the Spanish invasion of Mexico was a pivotal moment in the nation’s history.
When you’ve finished checking out the murals at Bellas Artes, there’s more to see and do. The National Institute of Fine Arts also runs a number of temporary exhibitions at the venue, focused on numerous aspects of art. At the time of my visit (although I believe both have since closed), there was an exhibition focused on Mexico’s surrealist art movement, as well as a section displaying the late Rina Lazo’s depiction of the Mayan underworld. Unlike many art galleries that I’ve visited, entry to these temporary exhibits was actually included with general admission so its worth checking out whats on even if you normally wouldn’t do so.
The fourth floor of Bellas Artes contains the Museo Nacional de Arquitectura. I didn’t get up here during my visit (as I was ready for dinner by that point!), but this mini-museum highlights Mexico City’s architecture. From what I understand, you’ll find historic photos, floor plans and other memorabilia on display. If you’re an architect buff it probably warrants a look, though admission is an extra $65 MXN. The signage marking the entrance to the exhibition space isn’t obvious, but you’ve basically got to take the elevator to the top floor of the building.
As you can tell, there’s a lot to see in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, especially if you’re an art buff (but what else would you expect from a Fine Arts Palace?!). I had a great time checking out the murals, although I didn’t spend much time in the other exhibits of the building. I’m still glad I got to see some of Mexico’s best (and most controversial) artworks in this incredible beautiful palace of a theatre. Whats your favourite work of fine art in the Palacio de Bellas Artes?
The Templo Mayor is the most significant Aztec monument that occupied the site of modern day Mexico City. While today, Mexico’s Centro Historico is filled with colonial buildings and churches, street performers and bustling cantinas and taquerias, the ruins of another city lay underneath. Long …
When visiting a new city, one of the first things I like to do is find an observatory with a view. Torre Latinoamericana might not be Mexico City’s tallest skyscraper anymore, but it does offer some of the best views of the Mexican capital. Located …
As the second largest Catholic country in the world, the Church plays a major role in modern Mexican life. Mexico City’s Catedral Metropolitana is the biggest cathedral in Latin America. Its fitting considering Mexico City is also the world’s largest Catholic diocese. The massive eye-catching church sits mere steps away from the Zocalo square in the Centro Historico. You can’t miss it, and I found myself dazzled by its spectacular facade every time I passed through the city’s historical centre. Even though I’m not religious, I knew that I couldn’t leave Mexico City without stepping inside the Catedral Metropolitana. As one of my first stops during my stay, it was a memorable introduction to the Mexico that came about from its days as a Spanish colony.
With so many altars and paintings, its easy to become overwhelmed by the cathedral’s brilliance. In this post I’ll list some specific things that you should see inside the Catedral Metropolitana.
The construction of the first church by Mexico City’s Zocalo began in 1524, following the arrival of the Spanish. Hernan Cortez himself, is often credited with laying its foundation stone. Cortez declared the ruins of the Templo Mayor to be a barbaric reminder of the Aztec Empire, and decided to build a Catholic Church over its foundations. The rather modest church was designed by Martin de Sepulveda and was constructed using the same stones that were part of the desecrated Aztec temple. Ten years later, the church was named the Cathedral of Zumarraga, however its small size was considered a disappointment. The governors of New Spain felt their City of Palaces deserved a grander church and commissioned an expansion of the building into the Catedral Metropolitana that we see today.
While further work began on Catedral Metropolitana in the latter half of the 16th century, the cathedral was not completed until almost 3 centuries later! Not only did the marshy grounds atop of Lake Texcoco pose construction challenges for the Spaniards, but the works were also interrupted by various political and historic events. By the time of its 1813 completion, the cathedral’s design blended a range of architectural styles. Despite this mishmash of styles (ranging from Neo-Classical to Baroque to Churrigueresque, just to name a few), the sum of the parts create an impressive whole.
While the Spaniards were initially warned that the Cathedral would sink into the ground due to the swampy terrain, this didn’t falter their resolve. The claims would prove to be based in truth however and the cathedral is gradually sinking into the soft clay of the lake remnants below Mexico City. This became a major problem in the wake of the 1985 earthquake, resulting in major restorative and stabilising work being carried out on the cathedral. Those works were completed in the year 2000, ensuring that the cathedral won’t collapse, despite this phenomena.
Before diving into what you can see at the Catedral Metropolitana, there’s a few things to know before your visit. You can generally enter the Cathedral at any time during opening hours. The one exception to this is during mass service. The archbishop of Mexico City conducts mass every Sunday at noon in Catedral Metropolitana. You can still enter the Cathedral if you want to take part in the service, but you understandably can’t wander around like a tourist during that time.
While there is no fee to enter Catedral Metropolitana, a small donation is requested if you wish to access the Church’s Sacristy (the hidden oldest section of the Church) or the Choir. Neither was open on my visit, but I did arrive during the late afternoon so suspect this might have had something to do with it. For a very small fee, you can also ascend the towers of the cathedral. Climbing a series of stairs, you’ll emerge underneath the bells with spectacular views over the Zocalo. Sadly, access to the towers was also closed on the day I visited Catedral Metropolitana.
There’s no real signage around the Cathedral describing what you’re looking at. The only signs I saw in the church were around some of the chapel displays, and these were all in Spanish. If you want to learn more about the Cathedral, free tours depart daily from inside the church hourly between 10.30am to 6.00pm. You may be approached by “guides” outside the church, offering their services, but they’ll expect a fee and aren’t official guides. My suggestion would be to decline and head on inside.
I visited the Cathedral on my own. While I didn’t fully understand the significance of what I was looking at until reading about it later, I still found the Cathedral to be fascinating. I only spent about half an hour inside, which was enough time for me, though you might spend longer if you’re particularly interested in Christian sites.
When visiting Catedral Metropolitana, you should spend a few minutes taking it in its exterior facade. It consists of a myriad of elements and designs. While the Cathedral stands 65 metres tall, it actually looks bigger than that when you get up close. Thats at least partly due to the work of architect Juan de Herrera, who balanced the different shapes and structures in such a way whereby the more distinct parts are broken up by plain vertical columns. That intentional choice has the effect of drawing your eyes upwards, making the grand cathedral appear to reach up to the heavens.
As you stand in front of the main entrance, you’ll notice a central bas-relief above the door. This relief depicts the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, to whom the Cathedral is dedicated. She is guarded by statues of Saints Matthew and Andrew on each side, while the Mexican Coat of Arms can be seen further above her. The associated image of the eagle clutching at a snake on a cactus leaf is in many ways a fitting link to the old Aztec culture who viewed this symbol as a message from their own gods to build the city of Tenochtitlan at the same site many centuries prior.
While outside the cathedral, you might also notice a large cross on a column towards the south east corner of the cathedral grounds. This cross used to be part of the cemetery (which was eventually moved off the premises). Its obviously a Christian symbol, but if you look at its base, you’ll notice a Crown of Thorns surrounded by human skull carvings. This may be an homage to Mexico’s Aztec heritage. In more recent times, a tower of human skulls was discovered below the cathedral’s foundations, with archeologists thinking these skulls may have came about from Aztec sacrifices in Tenochtitlan. Some even believe that tower was created by the Aztecs in a fruitless attempt to scare off the Spanish conquistadors following their arrival!
A more traditionally Catholic image can be seen towards the west entrance to the Cathedral in the form of a sculpture of Pope John Paul II. While it will look like any statue from a distance, up close you’ll see his cloak is superimposed with an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe. As you’ll learn below, this important figure first revealed herself on the inside of a cloak, explaining the choice of imagery here. Fun fact: the sculpture of the late Pope was actually created from melted down keys donated by the Mexican public, the implication being that Pope John Paul II was the key to the hearts of the Mexican people.
Once you step inside the Catedral Metropolitana, you’ll see it in all its glory. The cathedral contains 5 naves, through which there are 40 columns and 71 arches. One thing I noticed right away is that unlike many classic European churches, there’s no stain glass in the windows here. Instead, the cathedral’s windows are quite plain but let plenty of light into the cathedral. By contrast, the 16 chapels along the outer naves are not very well lit at all, making for an interesting contrast from the main area when you go to have a look at their contents, some of which I’ll cover further below.
The Central Nave contains two of the cathedral’s gold covered altars. Its also interrupted by the Choir, a gated off area used to provide seating for the clergy and musical choir. Inside the Choir are an assortment of precisely carved chairs, adorned with reliefs depicting various saints. Behind the Choir are the Cathedral’s Organs. The original church organ used here came from Spain in 1530, but when the church was expanded, it was quickly realised that a larger organ would be needed to fill the cavernous cathedral with its tunes. The two organs used in the cathedral today are the most significant 18th century organs in North America. Known as Evangelio and Epistola, they were sourced from Madrid and Mexico City in 1680 and 1736 respectively.
Moving deeper into the Church, the main nave contains a series of pews before the Major Altar. This altar is out in the open and sits atop a marble slab. Historically, this was where the Priest would prepare the Eucharist. The Central Nave also contains a large pendulum in this area. Between the pews, it marks the movement of the cathedral as it continues to sink.
One of the first things you’ll see when you enter the Catedral Metropolitana is the Altar of Forgiveness (Altar de Perdon). As the first major altar of the cathedral, it draws tons of worshippers in front of its golden carved display. Designed by Spanish architect Jeronimo de Balbas, the golden altar contains the first use of the epistite column, which can be seen on either side of its focal painting.
During the Spanish Inquisition, condemned people were sent to the Altar of Forgiveness to plead for forgiveness from their sins prior to being executed. One such condemned was the artist Simon Pereyns. Accused of blasphemy, Pereyns painted the depiction of the Virgin Mary now displayed in the centre of the Altar. In doing so, he was granted forgiveness from his crimes, due to the fact that the painting was regarded by his prosecutors as one of the most beautiful images of the Virgin Mary ever created.
A black depiction of Christ hangs on a crucifix to the side of the Altar. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice that the legs are bent to the side, rather than in their usual position. This is the subject of a rather interesting legend. It is claimed that one night a thief confessed to murdering a man during a robbery, but after doing so felt that the priest may report his crimes. Noticing the priest would kiss the feet of the statue each night, the criminal supposedly smeared poison on them. When the priest went to kiss the statue that night, it supposedly came alive and kicked its feet out of reach, saving the priest’s life. While it may be a legend, the Poisoned Lord icon serves as a mystical warning to criminals to this day.
Passing the Altar of Forgiveness, you’ll move deeper into the Cathedral along one of the side naves. Each of these naves is lined by seven chapels, each dedicated to a specific saint. Some of the most prominent chapels can be seen along the right side of the cathedral, but its worth stopping to see them all. They’re often behind closed gates, so you may have to look through the bars, particularly if you’re visiting later in the day. While taking in some of the more notable chapels, be sure to also check out the large paintings and sculptures of various saints lining the walls of the vestibule. The largest paintings in particular are notable for being the work of Miguel Cabrera, a Mexican artist from Oaxaca.
The third chapel along the right side of the Catedral Metropolitana is possibly the most significant of all. The actual chapel dates back to 1642, although its current altar came into being during the 18th century. Its a shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary and contains numerous paintings (by Guadalajara artist Jose de Ibarra no less) depicting various Passions of Christ. The centrepiece is a sculpture of the Virgin Mary, with stars in a halo around her head. This characterisation of the mother of Christ is symbolic of her freedom of original sin from the moment of her conception. While this is the main focus of this chapel, it also holds the remains of the Franciscan Friar Antonio Margil de Jesus.
Right next to the Chapel of Immaculate Conception is one dedicated to an extremely venerated image of Latin American Catholicism, the Virgin of Guadalupe. While the chapel is less elaborate than many of those surrounding it, it remains incredibly popular among local worshippers and is deserving of a stop on your exploration of Catedral Metropolitana. I touched on the Virgin of Guadalupe earlier. The story comes from the supposed appearance of the Virgin Mary to one Juan Diego, delivering a message to him to erect a church in her honour at the Villa de Guadalupe. Diego appealed to the local archbishop, however his pleas were unheard as nobody believed he had witnessed such an apparition.
Legend says the Virgin Mary then appeared to Diego again, telling him to pluck flowers from Tepeyac Hill, despite Diego knowing it was not blooming season. Nonetheless, Diego headed to the hill and found unseasonal Castilian roses there, despite them not even being native to the region. When Diego reported back to the Archbishop, the flowers fell from his cloak revealing the image of the Virgin of Guadalupe on it in the process. The awestruck clergy instantly begun construction of the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe as originally requested in response.
Inside the 19th century chapel, you’ll see a neo-classical altar dedicated to the sacred depiction of the Virgin. Above the altar is a reproduction of the same image of the Virgin as found in the Church of Guadalupe.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Antigua can be found in the very next alcove of the right nave. It was built between 1653 and 1660 and contains a copy of a painting of the Virgin Mary found in the Cathedral of Seville in Spain. This copy is the centrepiece of the chapel and was brought to New Spain by merchant ship during the colonial era.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Antigua is also known for the Nino Cautivo (Captive Child) icon, which has an interesting story behind it. This figure depicting Jesus as a child was also brought out from Spain in the 16th century, though on the way, the ship carrying it was attacked by pirates. To avoid losing the sacred image, the Church paid a massive ransom for the return of the figure. While the Cult of the Nino Cautivo is considered to be inactive by the National Institute of Anthropology and History, it has seen a resurgence in venerators in recent years, often being petitioned by those seeking release from restrictions such as financial struggles and addictions. Interestingly, it is also said to bear significance to those who pray if a family member has been abducted and held for ransom.
Past all the chapels, you simply can’t miss the Altar of the Kings (Altar de los Reyes) on a visit to Catedral Metropolitana. The undisputed centrepiece of the entire cathedral sits at the far end of the central nave and is adorned in gold from floor to ceiling. The priceless gilding actually extends up the wall onto the dome ceiling, creating a golden cave, known as la Cueva Dorado. The creation of this immensely impressive altar took 19 years, with work starting in 1718.
You’ll want to get up close to take in the various details depicted within the altar once you’ve gotten past the abundance of gold on display. The very bottom of the altar contains a collection of statues of various female royal saints ranging from St Margaret of Scotland to Elizabeth of Aragon. Above them, in the middle of the altar, are the six canonised kings. These Royal Saints surround an oil painting by Juan Rodriguez Juarez entitled the Adoration of the Magi, which depicts the Virgin Mary holding Baby Jesus. Above this work is another notable painting, this one displaying the Assumption of Mary into the heavens to become Queen of the Skies. Further yet towards the dome are three medallions amongst carved figures of angels, depicting the Holy Trinity – the father, son and Holy Spirit.
The Golden Cave of the Altar of the Kings extends onto the surrounding walls to the left and right. In addition to the ever present gold walls, these sides of the altar contain various paintings showing numerous scenes of saints and martyrs.
After exiting Catedral Metropolitana, you should head over to the eastern side of the cathedral. Connecting to the elaborate church you’ve just explored, you’ll see a shift in architectural styles over what appears to be another entrance to it. This is actually a separate church known as the Sagrario Metropolitana. Built in the mid-18th century, it was originally built to house the archives and vestments of Mexico City’s archbishop, but nowadays its actually the main working church of the city’s parish (with Catedral Metropolitana full of tourists!).
The interior is nothing spectacular compared to that of Catedral Metropolitana, but the facade is arguably even more striking. A fine example of Churrigueresque style with its elaborate and detailed carvings, Sagrario Metropolitana is covered in sculptures of saints and martyrs all the way up its entrance. In many ways, the facade is similar in style to the Altar of the Kings (minus the gold and paintings of course!).
With all there is to see inside Catedral Metropolitana, its no wonder that the Cathedral is frequently visited by tourists in Mexico City. While acting respectfully towards those coming to worship, make sure you see the above and everything else that you’ll find inside to get the most of a visit to Mexico’s heart of Catholicism. There’s so many churches and cathedrals in Mexico City, but this is the one to see if you’re only interested in going inside one. If you’ve been to any others, what other churches, cathedrals or basilicas do you recommend including on a visit to Mexico City?
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