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You must visit Castillo de Chapultepec when in Mexico City. After all, it is the only castle in North America to ever house royalty. The castle sits at the highest point of Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest park. This massive public space is even bigger than New York’s Central Park. With so much to see and do in the park, (including botanical gardens, a boating lake and even a zoo), Castillo de Chapultepec is the highlight standing above the rest. From atop “grasshopper hill”, the castle terraces offer spectacular views across the park all the way down Paseo de Reforma. Chapultepec Castle is now the site of the Museo Nacional de Historia, and there’s no better place to become acquainted with the history of Mexico than inside its walls.
Spending a morning at Castillo de Chapultepec was one of my favourite things I did in Mexico City and I encourage everyone make the castle a stop on their itinerary.
Construction on Castillo de Chapultepec began in 1785 under the Spanish viceroy Bernardo de Galvez. The site had actually been chosen by his father, Matias de Galvez, who wanted the the highest point in the surrounding forest to serve as his vacation home. Despite these grand plans, neither Galvez would end up seeing the completed project, with Bernardo dying from typhus one year into construction. The Spanish Crown subsequently ordered the residence to be sold, however nobody was interested. Ultimately, the City of Mexico purchased the site in 1806 (after its contents and furnishings had been auctioned off) and in 1833 converted the abandoned mansion into a military college. It was during this time period that the residence was first regarded a castle, with several architectural and defensive alterations being made.
The Castillo was the site of a key battle in the war against the United States, serving as the last bastion of Mexican defence in the face of American invasion in 1847. Infamously, American forces would seize the castle, raising their flag from its roof, while six young soldiers wrapped themselves in Mexican flags and leapt to their deaths, rather than surrendering. These heroic actions are commemorated by the Monument a los Ninos Heroes at the foot of Chapultepec Hill.
Castillo de Chapultepec became the first (and only) castle to house royalty in 1861. The French instilled Emperor Maximilian I of Austria’s Habsburg Dynasty as the Mexican monarch, ushering a period known as the Second Mexican Empire. Maximilian and his Empress Charlotte would reign over Mexico from Chapultepec Castle, and in the process greatly refurbished it with grand salons, sweeping terraces and rooftop gardens.
Maximilian’s reign ended after 3 short years, as he was overthrown by Benito Juarez in 1864. The castle subsequently became a presidential residence by decree of President Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada. The most notable president to reside in the castle was the dictator, Porfirio Diaz. During his reign of over 30 years, the palace reached new heights of luxury and opulence. The tower in the centre of the castle’s courtyard was erected during this period, marking the very top point of Chapultepec Hill.
Diaz’s grip over the presidency came to an end with the events of the Mexican Revolution, which ushered in significant change (after a period of major instability). In 1939, President Lazaro Cardenas decreed that Castillo de Chapultepec would become the site of the Museo Nacional de Historia (National Museum of History). The castle was subsequently opened to the public in 1944 and today contains an assortment of mural paintings, documents and artefacts in its permanent collection, as well as an assortment of preserved furnished site rooms.
The section of Castillo de Chapultepec which housed the old military college now contains the History Rooms. This assortment of galleries and their mural covered walls chronicle Mexican history from before the 15th century to the 20th century. Throughout the halls, you’ll come across objects, images, artefacts and more, ranging from the eyeglasses of Benito Juarez, to the firearms used in the execution of Emperor Maximilian, and everything in between. An outstanding collection of mural paintings are the highlights. Created between 1933 and 1970, these works of prominent artists depict key historical moments from Mexico’s history. Most of the signage in the History Rooms is only in Spanish, so I recommend you go in with some knowledge of the basic history to get the most out of your visit.
Your journey through Mexican history begins in the “Two Isolated Continents” room. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish in 1492, there was no contact between Europeans and Mexico’s indigenous peoples. The ‘New World’ was completely changed by the arrival of the Spaniards, a major theme explored in Jorge Gonzalez Camarena’s La Fusion de Dos Culturas mural presiding over this room. In the mural, a Spanish and Nahuatl warrior are painted clashing in battle, simultaneously dying in action while an eagle emerges from the ashes. That eagle represents the birth of the new Mexican nation.
The following galleries highlight key events during Mexico’s time as New Spain (1521 to 1821). Particular attention is given to the role of the viceroyalty in their last few decades in power, which is fitting considering their role in Castillo de Chapultepec. Christian motifs and artworks are also present throughout this section of the museum, with Catholicism becoming a key doctrine in the lives of the new colony’s citizens.
History Room 6 covers the War of Mexican Independence. All the key events from the initial rising of arms to the official declaration of independence from Spain in 1821 are documented here, as are the various characters and competing schools of thought of the period. The massive mural by Juan O’Gorman entitled Retablo de la Independencia ties it all together. In one work of art, O’Gorman tells the story from 1795 to 1813, starting with ideological precursors to the independence movement developing in response to the unfair social organisation of New Spain, until key figures such as Priest Hidalgo and Jose Mario Morelos come into the picture. Moving from left to right, this is all depicted underneath a moon turning to a rising sun, a symbolic day in which Mexico ultimately passed from Spanish domination into a new dawn of autonomy.
Of course, the new nation was not without its problems, and they’re all documented in the next collection of galleries. Here, you learn about the various forms of government that were implemented in the period following independence, from the constitutional monarchy to the central republic. There’s a number of exhibits that chronicle the reign of Emperor Maximilian as well. Meanwhile, Jose Clemente Orozco’s La Reforma y la Caida del Imperio depicts the triumph of Benito Juarez’ liberal movement over the Habsburg monarch.
The last set of History Rooms at Castillo de Chapultepec cover the movement towards modern Mexico in wake of the triumph of the liberal republic over the Second Mexican Empire. From the period 1867 to 1910, numerous reforms were carried out by successive governments. National political stability and favourable international reputation was garnered under the presidential reigns of names following Juarez such as Sebastian Ledro de Tejada, Manuel Gonzalez and ultimately Porfirio Diaz. These key figures are all spotlighted through room 9 and 10 of the museum. Not all was rosey however, and the unequal wealth distributions, inequality and undemocratic government under Diaz directly led to the events of the Mexican Revolution, which broke out in 1910.
Numerous murals in the last few halls of the museum cover the Revolution. One such work is that of Retablo de la Revolucion (Sufrage Efectivo No Refleccion by Juan O’Gorman. This piece depicts the early stages of the Revolution, in which revolutionary leader Francisco I Madero is seen riding from Chapultepec to face the uprisings in the city centre. Additionally, David Alfred Siqueiros’ Del Porfirismo a la Revolucion provides a visual narrative covering 1906 to 1914, highlighting key moments throughout the movement. Such events include the Cananea Strike of 1906, a key moment that marked the beginning of the struggle by the oppressed against Diaz’s regime. Diaz himself can be seen treading on the Constitution of 1857, while revolutionaries rise up against his regime. The exhibition ends with the adoption of Mexico’s new constitution on February 5, 1917.
When you’re finished with the History Rooms, its time to visit the eastern half of the castle. This section is called the Alcazar (or Site Museum) and consists of a collection of rooms set up as they would have been over different eras in Chapultepec’s history. In these rooms you’ll see all kinds of furniture, paintings and antiques, while learning about the people that lived lives of splendour in the castle’s halls. The Alcazar is divided up into two levels. The lower floor’s rooms represents the castle during the reign of Emperor Maximilian, while the upper level captures Castillo de Chapultepec during the era of Porfirio Diaz.
The Alcazar’s first floor begins with an introduction to the reign of Maximilian. Ruling over Mexico from 1864 to 1867, you’ll learn about how he came to power and his time in Mexico. Unlike the History rooms, I found this part of the Castle to contain much more signage in both English and Spanish, so I definitely benefited from that. You’ll pass a range of rooms set up as they would have been in the era of the Habsburg monarch. You’ll see the dining room, music room and bathroom, Empress Charlotte’s bedroom, and so much more. I particularly enjoyed the carriage room, with the royal coach used by the royal couple on their journey through Mexico in 1864 on display.
Upstairs, the Alcazar continues with a look into the era of the Porfiriato. Passing the President’s office, Diaz’ bedroom and more, you’ll see Castillo de Chapultepec at its most splendid in the rooms set up from this period. While you’re up here, make sure you stop by the stained leaded windows hall, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful spots in the entire castle. This hallway is lined with stained-glass windows made in Paris and ordered by President Diaz in 1900. They depict the figures of five elegant goddesses from Greco-Latin mythology. Ironically, the breathtaking glass displays shielded the magnificence of Diaz’s palatial abode from the eyes of most of the Mexican population, who through Diaz’s reign lived in increasing poverty and disillusionment with his regime.
While spending time at Castillo de Chapultepec, make sure you appreciate the spectacular views from the terrace lining the Alcazar. Its black and white tiled floors resemble an endless chess board. The terrace was added during the Maximilian years, with the royal couple often savouring the beautiful views eastward into the heart of Mexico City. The Habsburg emperor was known to spend time reading and issuing his decrees and presidential correspondence from this very terrace. Nowadays, its filled with guests looking for the perfect photo spot. Along the terrace railing, you’ll also see statues commemorating the Mexican soldiers that fought to defend the castle in the American War two decades years prior.
One of my favourite parts of Castillo de Chapultepec were the formal gardens on its upper level. Well tended, this source of greenery is protected from the elements in a courtyard surrounded by the castle’s halls. The gardens were immaculately restored from descriptions recounted in historical writings by the old Habsburg monarch. Similar to many European palaces of the time, the gardens serve as a visual extension of the surrounding exterior parkland. They make for a place to sit and relax, underneath the trademark tower of Chapultepec in the middle.
While passing between the castle’s levels, take a moment to linger at the main staircase. In addition to the beautiful stain glass windows surrounding the stairwell, two significant murals are on display. Eduardo Solares’ Alegoria de la Revolucion depicts key players in the overthrow of Porfirio Diaz, while Gabiel Flores’ La Intervencion Norteamericana is likely the most famous work in the castle. It shows Juan Escutia, one of the Ninos Heroes plunging to his demise with the Mexican eagle behind him. The work symbolises the losses of Mexico in the 1847 conflict, which saw the country cede more than half of its territory to the US.
Count on spending at least an hour and a half exploring the various galleries, exhibits and grounds of Castillo de Chapultepec. This historic site has seen so much change throughout the story of Mexico, making it the perfect place to learn about the country, all while surrounded by beautiful furnishings, halls and gardens. I love the way the castle has been converted to educate guests about Mexico’s history. It doesn’t feel like any ordinary museum, despite being the National Museum of History. When you visit, there will likely be some temporary exhibits to check out – on my trip there was a section retelling the tale of the Ninos and another on the Mexican naval fleet. Since they’re included with your admission, check them out while touring the rest of the complex.
Have you been to Castillo de Chapultepec? What did you find the most fascinating part? What else do you recommend doing in Bosque de Chapultepec?