How to Spend a Morning at Nelson’s Dockyard

Did you know that Antigua was home to the only Georgian era dockyard in the Western Hemisphere? Nelson’s Dockyard sits at English Harbour, to the south of the island. This part of the island makes for an interesting day trip regardless of where you’re staying in Antigua. Or if you’re already in English Harbour like I was, you can spend a bit of time at the dockyard to start the day before journeying further afield. Nelson’s Dockyard is a must on your Antiguan vacation. After all, it is the only UNESCO site in the entire country. History buffs and architecture admirers will love the chance to delve deeper into the past, and in this post I’m going to tell you about what there is to see here.

• If you’re off to Antigua, take a moment to read about all the things you can do on this beautiful island. You can read my guide HERE.

Nelson’s Dockyard – The Basics

• Where? Dockyard Drive, English Harbour, Saint Paul
• When? The Dockyard is open daily from 8.00am to 6.00pm.
• How much? General admission to the Dockyard costs $15.00 USD or $40.00 ECD.
• How to get there: The entrance to Nelson’s Dockyard is a short ten minute walk from the Antigua Yacht Club at English Harbour. If you’re coming from further afield, you’ll probably need to drive, take a taxi or organise your own transport with a tour. Driving from St John’s takes about 40 minutes (follow All Saints Road).
• Website: https://www.nationalparksantigua.com/nelsons-dockyard/

The History of Nelson’s Dockyard

Nelson’s Dockyard dates back to Antigua’s British Colonial history. While English Harbour was first acquired by the British Crown in 1725, the area was mostly neglected until the 1740s. As the French expanded their Caribbean territory and secured the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique with their own fleets, the British recognised the strategic location of this harbour in the south of Antigua, with its narrow bays surrounded by highlands. Having fallen by the wayside for years, development was needed to hold the Royal Navy. Work on Nelson’s Dockyard subsequently began, with 130 African slaves providing the majority of the labour.

By the 18th century, English Harbour had expanded significantly, and the Dockyard gave employment to hundreds of workers, while skirmishes at sea intensified with the French. With the Royal Navy’s Caribbean Fleet based at the Harbour until 1854, it became renowned as one of the most secure outposts in the entire British Empire. As its status grew, so too did the Dockyard, with the majority of its buildings being constructed from 1780 to 1820 to accommodate its increased usage.

Despite military clashes in the region becoming a less common occurrence following Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo, Nelson’s Dockyard continued to service the Royal Navy until vessels became larger and they could no longer navigate into the waters of English Harbour. As a result, the Dockyard closed in 1889. It fell into ruin shortly thereafter, only to face a revival effort that culminated with the site being declared a historic site in 1961. The subsequent reopening saw the establishment of the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park in 1984, and recognition by UNESCO in 2016. Today, Nelson’s Dockyard remains in use, although these days luxury yachts and catamarans tend to dock in its waters.

Now Who is Nelson?

The Dockyard is named after Horatio Nelson, the man who eventually led the British to victory at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. He came to Antigua aboard the HMS Boreas on 28 July 1784. Nelson was sent to the Caribbean to enforce the terms of the Navigation Act, which barred non-British ships from trading with Britain’s colonial territories in the region. As a result, Nelson’s reputation with the local merchants was tenuous to say the least, as they often sought to trade with powers such as the newly independent United States.

Nelson only spent 3 years in Antigua and he famously referred to the posting as an “infernal hellhole”. Despite this, his tenure coincided with the major expansion of the Dockyard, and thus his name became associated with it.

Things to Know When Visiting Nelson’s Dockyard

I visited Nelson’s Dockyard fairly early in the morning, arriving at the site just after 9.00am. It was easy for me to do this as my hotel was only a short walk away. It was pretty quiet and there were only a few other people wandering around the grounds, so it made for an enjoyable atmosphere, checking out the buildings, reading about the history and just admiring the waterfront views with a sense of solitude and tranquility. I spent about an hour looking around at my own pace before grabbing brunch at the nearby cafe. In many ways, it was the perfect place to enjoy before venturing to other spots across the island later in the day.

There’s nowhere to buy tickets to Nelson’s Dockyard online. You have to pay in cash at the entrance, though you can pay the fee in either US or East Caribbean dollars. One thing that you should know is that your entry to the Dockyard also grants you complimentary entrance to Shirley Heights Lookout, The Blockhouse and the Dow’s Hill Interpretation Centre. I didn’t get to the latter two on my stay in Antigua, but Shirley Heights offers an amazing vantage point over English Harbour and is one of the best places to watch a sunset on the island.

The Dockyard Buildings

Nelson’s Dockyard contains a myriad of buildings dating back to the latter half of the 18th century. One thing that is really cool is the way in which they have been repurposed for modern use, allowing sailors in the region to utilise the historic dockyard’s facilities. I visited Antigua during the low season, so many of them were closed, but it was still great to wander about the grounds and read the informative panels around the dockyard. One of the best examples of an old building put to modern use was the Saw Pit Shed. Built in 1769, this is the oldest building still standing in Nelson’s Dockyard and was originally used for cutting timber. It has since been converted into a sail repair shed. Meanwhile the nearby Joiner’s Loft is still used for its original purpose.

Other buildings in the dockyard have been converted into restaurants, bars and shops. The Pay Master’s Office now contains a supermarket, though the two storey structure is perhaps more notable for being the first building on site to be restored and used as a home in 1947.

Another repurposed structure in Nelson’s Dockyard is the Copper and Lumber Store. Constructed in 1789, this warehouse was originally used to store copper sheets. Historically, the upper floor was used as a dormitory for seamen who slept in hammocks. Today its a hotel containing 14 elegant suites and an event space.

The Dockyard Museum

The centrepiece of Nelson’s Dockyard today is the small museum housed within the Naval Officer’s and Clerk’s House. This two storey building (dating back to 1855), with its floors painted red to conceal the spill of blood, is actually the most recently constructed house in the Dockyard, . Entrance to the Dockyard Museum is free with your ticket (though donations are encouraged). Inside you’ll see an array of displays and information on the site’s history.

The museum’s ground floor takes you through the development of the Dockyard and provides an overview of some of the people that worked on the site. Highlights of the collection include a scale model of the Dockyard and a number of replica ships that would have docked here in bygone centuries. Upstairs, the exhibits focus on the military history of English Harbour and the story of Admiral Nelson. There’s more ships and artefacts to look at here (including a few figurehead models that were rather interesting) and a prominent bust of the man for whom the Dockyard was named. The Museum is fairly basic, and you’ll spend half an hour at the most inside, but its where you’ll learn the most about the history of the Dockyard.

The Dockyard Museum also contains a small gift shop, and is right next to the Bakery, where you can pick up a pastry or two.

Other Notable Sights

There are numerous cannons, anchors and other paraphernalia located around Nelson’s Dockyard. One such cannon is positioned to guard the entrance to the Admiral’s House. Further protection over the Harbour was ensured by the fort overlooking the waters.

Closer to the waterfront, you’ll see two black and white capstans jutting out of the ground. These were used to pull docked vessels halfway over, allowing for cleaning and repairs to be carried out on their otherwise submerged hulls. I doubt these are still used today, but they offer yet another glimpse into a bygone era.

The Sail Loft Pillars are probably the most famous structures in the entire Dockyard. Built in 1797, this cluster of 14 stone columns originally supported a hut used for sail repair. When the building was destroyed by an earthquake and subsequent hurricane, only the columns remained. As the Age of Sail came and went, the columns were sealed to protect them from the elements and today make for a beautiful backdrop when walking by the water. The nearby cafe by the Admiral’s Inn has a terrace overlooking the pillars and the bay. They cook an excellent English Breakfast, and I highly recommend stopping here after a tour of the Dockyard.

Before travelling to Antigua, Nelson’s Dockyard was the one place I was most interested in seeing. In hindsight, it wasn’t the best thing I did on the island, but I still enjoyed it. Staying in English Harbour, it was a great place to knock over early in the day, learn some history, then grab a feed. If you’re coming from further away, I’d try to tee up a trip to the Dockyard with Pigeon Point Beach and Shirley Heights, as they’re all in the general vicinity. Don’t make a trip across the island just to see the Dockyards on their own, but enjoy English Harbour and all its surroundings. Its a beautiful part of a gorgeous island.