While everyone flocks to the Museo Frida Kahlo when spending time in Mexico City’s Coyoacan, there is another small house just a few blocks away that contains another museum worth checking out. Most people don’t think of Leon Trotsky when picturing Mexico City, however it …
The National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Spanish) is an essential stop on your Mexico City itinerary. As the most visited museum in the city with the most museums in the world, I consider this to be one of the most interesting …
You must visit Castillo de Chapultepec when in Mexico City. After all, it is the only castle in North America to ever house royalty. The castle sits at the highest point of Bosque de Chapultepec, Mexico City’s largest park. This massive public space is even bigger than New York’s Central Park. With so much to see and do in the park, (including botanical gardens, a boating lake and even a zoo), Castillo de Chapultepec is the highlight standing above the rest. From atop “grasshopper hill”, the castle terraces offer spectacular views across the park all the way down Paseo de Reforma. Chapultepec Castle is now the site of the Museo Nacional de Historia, and there’s no better place to become acquainted with the history of Mexico than inside its walls.
Spending a morning at Castillo de Chapultepec was one of my favourite things I did in Mexico City and I encourage everyone make the castle a stop on their itinerary.
If you’re looking for more fun things to do in Mexico City, you should definitely check out my 3 day city itinerary guide, which you can read HERE.
Castillo de Chapultepec – The Basics
Where? Bosque de Chapultepec, Primera Seccione, Miguel Hidalgo, Mexico.
When? Castillo de Chapultepec is open Tuesdays to Sundays (closed Mondays) from 9.00am to 5.00pm.
How much? At the time of writing, admission to Castillo de Chapultepec costs $95 MXN for adults. Children aged 13 and under get free entry, as do people aged 60 and over. Note that on Sundays, Mexican citizens and permanent residents all get free entry.
How to get there: Castillo de Chapultepec is located at the top of the hill in the first section of Bosque de Chapultepec. If you’re walking to the park along Paseo de Reforma, continue straight (past the Monumento a los Ninos Heroes) until you reach the ticket booth at the bottom of the hill. After purchasing your ticket, follow the long path curving up the hill to get to the castle. Coming from further away, the nearest metro stations are Chapultepec (line 1) or Auditorium (line 7).
Construction on Castillo de Chapultepec began in 1785 under the Spanish viceroy Bernardo de Galvez. The site had actually been chosen by his father, Matias de Galvez, who wanted the the highest point in the surrounding forest to serve as his vacation home. Despite these grand plans, neither Galvez would end up seeing the completed project, with Bernardo dying from typhus one year into construction. The Spanish Crown subsequently ordered the residence to be sold, however nobody was interested. Ultimately, the City of Mexico purchased the site in 1806 (after its contents and furnishings had been auctioned off) and in 1833 converted the abandoned mansion into a military college. It was during this time period that the residence was first regarded a castle, with several architectural and defensive alterations being made.
The Castillo was the site of a key battle in the war against the United States, serving as the last bastion of Mexican defence in the face of American invasion in 1847. Infamously, American forces would seize the castle, raising their flag from its roof, while six young soldiers wrapped themselves in Mexican flags and leapt to their deaths, rather than surrendering. These heroic actions are commemorated by the Monument a los Ninos Heroes at the foot of Chapultepec Hill.
Castillo de Chapultepec became the first (and only) castle to house royalty in 1861. The French instilled Emperor Maximilian I of Austria’s Habsburg Dynasty as the Mexican monarch, ushering a period known as the Second Mexican Empire. Maximilian and his Empress Charlotte would reign over Mexico from Chapultepec Castle, and in the process greatly refurbished it with grand salons, sweeping terraces and rooftop gardens.
Maximilian’s reign ended after 3 short years, as he was overthrown by Benito Juarez in 1864. The castle subsequently became a presidential residence by decree of President Sebastian Lerdo de Tejada. The most notable president to reside in the castle was the dictator, Porfirio Diaz. During his reign of over 30 years, the palace reached new heights of luxury and opulence. The tower in the centre of the castle’s courtyard was erected during this period, marking the very top point of Chapultepec Hill.
Diaz’s grip over the presidency came to an end with the events of the Mexican Revolution, which ushered in significant change (after a period of major instability). In 1939, President Lazaro Cardenas decreed that Castillo de Chapultepec would become the site of the Museo Nacional de Historia (National Museum of History). The castle was subsequently opened to the public in 1944 and today contains an assortment of mural paintings, documents and artefacts in its permanent collection, as well as an assortment of preserved furnished site rooms.
The History Rooms
The section of Castillo de Chapultepec which housed the old military college now contains the History Rooms. This assortment of galleries and their mural covered walls chronicle Mexican history from before the 15th century to the 20th century. Throughout the halls, you’ll come across objects, images, artefacts and more, ranging from the eyeglasses of Benito Juarez, to the firearms used in the execution of Emperor Maximilian, and everything in between. An outstanding collection of mural paintings are the highlights. Created between 1933 and 1970, these works of prominent artists depict key historical moments from Mexico’s history. Most of the signage in the History Rooms is only in Spanish, so I recommend you go in with some knowledge of the basic history to get the most out of your visit.
The Discovery and Conquest of New Spain
Your journey through Mexican history begins in the “Two Isolated Continents” room. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish in 1492, there was no contact between Europeans and Mexico’s indigenous peoples. The ‘New World’ was completely changed by the arrival of the Spaniards, a major theme explored in Jorge Gonzalez Camarena’s La Fusion de Dos Culturas mural presiding over this room. In the mural, a Spanish and Nahuatl warrior are painted clashing in battle, simultaneously dying in action while an eagle emerges from the ashes. That eagle represents the birth of the new Mexican nation.
The following galleries highlight key events during Mexico’s time as New Spain (1521 to 1821). Particular attention is given to the role of the viceroyalty in their last few decades in power, which is fitting considering their role in Castillo de Chapultepec. Christian motifs and artworks are also present throughout this section of the museum, with Catholicism becoming a key doctrine in the lives of the new colony’s citizens.
Mexican Independence
History Room 6 covers the War of Mexican Independence. All the key events from the initial rising of arms to the official declaration of independence from Spain in 1821 are documented here, as are the various characters and competing schools of thought of the period. The massive mural by Juan O’Gorman entitled Retablo de la Independencia ties it all together. In one work of art, O’Gorman tells the story from 1795 to 1813, starting with ideological precursors to the independence movement developing in response to the unfair social organisation of New Spain, until key figures such as Priest Hidalgo and Jose Mario Morelos come into the picture. Moving from left to right, this is all depicted underneath a moon turning to a rising sun, a symbolic day in which Mexico ultimately passed from Spanish domination into a new dawn of autonomy.
Of course, the new nation was not without its problems, and they’re all documented in the next collection of galleries. Here, you learn about the various forms of government that were implemented in the period following independence, from the constitutional monarchy to the central republic. There’s a number of exhibits that chronicle the reign of Emperor Maximilian as well. Meanwhile, Jose Clemente Orozco’s La Reforma y la Caida del Imperio depicts the triumph of Benito Juarez’ liberal movement over the Habsburg monarch.
Revolution and Modernity
The last set of History Rooms at Castillo de Chapultepec cover the movement towards modern Mexico in wake of the triumph of the liberal republic over the Second Mexican Empire. From the period 1867 to 1910, numerous reforms were carried out by successive governments. National political stability and favourable international reputation was garnered under the presidential reigns of names following Juarez such as Sebastian Ledro de Tejada, Manuel Gonzalez and ultimately Porfirio Diaz. These key figures are all spotlighted through room 9 and 10 of the museum. Not all was rosey however, and the unequal wealth distributions, inequality and undemocratic government under Diaz directly led to the events of the Mexican Revolution, which broke out in 1910.
Numerous murals in the last few halls of the museum cover the Revolution. One such work is that of Retablo de la Revolucion (Sufrage Efectivo No Refleccion by Juan O’Gorman. This piece depicts the early stages of the Revolution, in which revolutionary leader Francisco I Madero is seen riding from Chapultepec to face the uprisings in the city centre. Additionally, David Alfred Siqueiros’ Del Porfirismo a la Revolucion provides a visual narrative covering 1906 to 1914, highlighting key moments throughout the movement. Such events include the Cananea Strike of 1906, a key moment that marked the beginning of the struggle by the oppressed against Diaz’s regime. Diaz himself can be seen treading on the Constitution of 1857, while revolutionaries rise up against his regime. The exhibition ends with the adoption of Mexico’s new constitution on February 5, 1917.
The Alcazarof Castillo de Chapultepec
When you’re finished with the History Rooms, its time to visit the eastern half of the castle. This section is called the Alcazar (or Site Museum) and consists of a collection of rooms set up as they would have been over different eras in Chapultepec’s history. In these rooms you’ll see all kinds of furniture, paintings and antiques, while learning about the people that lived lives of splendour in the castle’s halls. The Alcazar is divided up into two levels. The lower floor’s rooms represents the castle during the reign of Emperor Maximilian, while the upper level captures Castillo de Chapultepec during the era of Porfirio Diaz.
The Lower Level
The Alcazar’s first floor begins with an introduction to the reign of Maximilian. Ruling over Mexico from 1864 to 1867, you’ll learn about how he came to power and his time in Mexico. Unlike the History rooms, I found this part of the Castle to contain much more signage in both English and Spanish, so I definitely benefited from that. You’ll pass a range of rooms set up as they would have been in the era of the Habsburg monarch. You’ll see the dining room, music room and bathroom, Empress Charlotte’s bedroom, and so much more. I particularly enjoyed the carriage room, with the royal coach used by the royal couple on their journey through Mexico in 1864 on display.
The Upper Level
Upstairs, the Alcazar continues with a look into the era of the Porfiriato. Passing the President’s office, Diaz’ bedroom and more, you’ll see Castillo de Chapultepec at its most splendid in the rooms set up from this period. While you’re up here, make sure you stop by the stained leaded windows hall, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful spots in the entire castle. This hallway is lined with stained-glass windows made in Paris and ordered by President Diaz in 1900. They depict the figures of five elegant goddesses from Greco-Latin mythology. Ironically, the breathtaking glass displays shielded the magnificence of Diaz’s palatial abode from the eyes of most of the Mexican population, who through Diaz’s reign lived in increasing poverty and disillusionment with his regime.
The Gardens and Terraceof Castillo de Chapultepec
While spending time at Castillo de Chapultepec, make sure you appreciate the spectacular views from the terrace lining the Alcazar. Its black and white tiled floors resemble an endless chess board. The terrace was added during the Maximilian years, with the royal couple often savouring the beautiful views eastward into the heart of Mexico City. The Habsburg emperor was known to spend time reading and issuing his decrees and presidential correspondence from this very terrace. Nowadays, its filled with guests looking for the perfect photo spot. Along the terrace railing, you’ll also see statues commemorating the Mexican soldiers that fought to defend the castle in the American War two decades years prior.
One of my favourite parts of Castillo de Chapultepec were the formal gardens on its upper level. Well tended, this source of greenery is protected from the elements in a courtyard surrounded by the castle’s halls. The gardens were immaculately restored from descriptions recounted in historical writings by the old Habsburg monarch. Similar to many European palaces of the time, the gardens serve as a visual extension of the surrounding exterior parkland. They make for a place to sit and relax, underneath the trademark tower of Chapultepec in the middle.
While passing between the castle’s levels, take a moment to linger at the main staircase. In addition to the beautiful stain glass windows surrounding the stairwell, two significant murals are on display. Eduardo Solares’ Alegoria de la Revolucion depicts key players in the overthrow of Porfirio Diaz, while Gabiel Flores’ La Intervencion Norteamericana is likely the most famous work in the castle. It shows Juan Escutia, one of the Ninos Heroes plunging to his demise with the Mexican eagle behind him. The work symbolises the losses of Mexico in the 1847 conflict, which saw the country cede more than half of its territory to the US.
Count on spending at least an hour and a half exploring the various galleries, exhibits and grounds of Castillo de Chapultepec. This historic site has seen so much change throughout the story of Mexico, making it the perfect place to learn about the country, all while surrounded by beautiful furnishings, halls and gardens. I love the way the castle has been converted to educate guests about Mexico’s history. It doesn’t feel like any ordinary museum, despite being the National Museum of History. When you visit, there will likely be some temporary exhibits to check out – on my trip there was a section retelling the tale of the Ninos and another on the Mexican naval fleet. Since they’re included with your admission, check them out while touring the rest of the complex.
Have you been to Castillo de Chapultepec? What did you find the most fascinating part? What else do you recommend doing in Bosque de Chapultepec?
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If there’s only one museum you get to during your visit to Panama City, make it the BioMuseo. Situated along the Amador Causeway, there’s no missing this distinctly abstract and colourful building. The BioMuseo is an extremely modern, interactive museum that focuses on Panama’s biodiversity and unique location in the natural world. The Panama isthmus truly links North and South Americas and the BioMuseo explores the significance of this through a combination of oversized visuals, immersive experiences and awe-inducing displays. You’ll come out of the BioMuseo knowing a lot more about Panama’s rich environments and the interconnectedness of its species. In this guide, I’ll be covering exactly what you’ll see on a visit to the BioMuseo.
Visiting Panama City in the future? Check out my 24 hour guide. Its an essential read for a quick stay in the city, and you can read it HERE.
The BioMuseo – The Basics:
Where? Amador Causeway 136, Panama City.
When? The BioMuseo is currently open from 10.00am to 3.00pm Thursdays and Fridays, and 11.00am to 4.00pm Saturdays and Sundays. It is closed from Monday to Wednesday as at the time of writing.
How much? General admission to the museum for non-resident adults is $18.00 USD. Children aged 5 to 17 years get in for $11.00 USD. Discounted rates apply for Panamanian citizens.
How to get there:Being on the Amador Causeway, the BioMuseo is easy to get to. If you take an Uber from Casco Viejo, you’ll be there within 15 minutes. Alternatively, the Albrook Line 1 metro goes to the Causeway and back, though I didn’t use the public transport system in Panama.
Before we talk about the actual BioMuseo itself, we have to talk about that building. Chances are you’ll be spending a bit of time checking it before you go inside anyway. The building was designed by the renowned architect Frank Gehry (his first foray into Latin America) and to say its vibrantly coloured and eye catching is an understatement. While its open to interpretation, the colourful roof panels and columns are supposedly set out to symbolise the powerful and uncontrolled forces of nature that have given rise to the immense biodiversity found in Panama and more generally globally. Some might say that the building’s design evokes images of tree trunks and branches reaching out into a dynamic canopy of colour. One thing is for sure though – if you lined all the building’s panels up against one another, they’d cover a soccer field!
The museum is a fairly new attraction to Panama City. It only opened in 2014, and you’ll notice throughout your visit that this is a much more modern museum than other interpretative sites throughout the city.
Exhibits in the BioMuseo
The BioMuseo is made up of 8 permanent galleries that are designed to be experienced in a linear manner. If you haven’t pre-booked your ticket, you’ll buy it in an outdoor central area before being led through the doors into the first exhibition gallery. In addition to the museum’s galleries, there is also a gift shop and cafe on site (which I stopped by for lunch), and the museum may also host temporary exhibitions from time to time.
Most of the signage throughout the BioMuseo is in both Spanish and English, so if you’re reading this, you won’t have any problems understanding what you’re seeing throughout the museum. There is an audioguide available on the museum’s official website (download it in advance if you want to use it), but its fairly basic. There’s lots of information panels that cover all the content anyway, so I don’t think the audio guide adds that much to your experience.
You should plan on spending about 2 hours for a reasonably comprehensive tour of the BioMuseo’s permanent exhibits. I’ll now cover those exhibits in the order they’re designed to be experienced.
Gallery of Biodiversity
Your introduction to the BioMuseo is (fittingly) the Gallery of Biodiversity. Here you’ll learn what biodiversity actually is, which is an extremely important concept if you’re going to get much out of the museum. Biodiversity comprises the totality of living organisms and ecosystems on our planet and the huge variation of species and environments. Protecting biodiversity is critical, given how interlinked the components of the natural world are, as you’ll learn later in the museum. Unfortunately, we’re losing biodiversity on earth – while new species are still being discovered, others are becoming extinct in the face of human growth and expansion. That message is conveyed by the gallery’s multicoloured wall covered in silhouettes of different animal species from Panama. They’re all colour-coded, with green meaning the species is found in abundance, while red species are critically endangered. Those shown in black have already been declared extinct.
Its a sobering start to the museum. You’ll learn that habitat destruction is the main cause of extinction. Unfortunately more than 7 million hectares of forest are being cleared each year (more than the entire size of Panama). Under current trends, its made quite clear that many species alive today could also vanish over the next few centuries.
Panamarama
After waiting around in the first exhibit, you’ll be ushered into the Panamarama cinema. This highly immersive multi-sensory experience is a highlight of BioMuseo. As you sit or stand, you’re surrounded by 10 massive screens around, above and below you. When the presentation begins, you’ll be taken on a journey across Panama’s diverse landscapes and ecosystems, ranging from the Caribbean beaches to the mountain forests. As the film rolls along, you’ll be fully engaged as you hear the sounds of nature and even get a brief spray as a tropical storm rolls in. Since I didn’t get to venture outside of Panama City, this was an incredible overview of the country’s diverse environments. My only complaint was that its only about 5 minutes. I would have happily sat through more of it!
Building the Bridge
Leaving the theatre, you’re free to explore the rest of the museum at your own pace, beginning with the Building the Bridge exhibit. Here, you’ll learn about the geological processes that led to the creation of the Panama isthmus over millions of years. 70 million years ago, Panama was under the sea and the American continents were divided by ocean.
In this exhibit, you follow the process step by step, starting with the formation of basalt rocks on the sea floor through plate tectonic movements. Over time, volcanoes emerged and by 45 million years ago, Panama was a chain of volcanic islands. With volcanos come ash and lava, which in turn gradually connected the islands. As the plates of the earth continued to collide, more eruptions followed and the mountainous backbone of Panama continued to emerge. Some three million years ago, Panama formed a land bridge between the two Americas, quite literally changing the world.
The formation of Panama transformed weather patterns and oceanic circulation (after all, there was now a mass of land separating that previously vast ocean!). Its even thought that these changes may have played a role in the start of the Ice Age which ultimately led to hominid ancestors developing in Africa. Panama didn’t just change the world, it quite literally could have led to our very existence!
How do we know all this? Geological research. This exhibit contains a number of rock formations and fossils that provide valuable clues to the phenomena of plate tectonics. You’ll also come across a seismograph – an instrument used to measure the constantly moving plates on the earth’s surface.
Worlds Collide
One of the most memorable halls in the BioMuseo is the Worlds Collide gallery. Following on from the story of Panama’s formation, this exhibit is all about the impact it had on the evolution of life. The gallery is filled by a massive sculpture depicting 72 different species coming together from both north and south. This Great Biotic Interchange took place when the American continents connected, with Panama providing access to new lands for numerous animals and birds. This continues to the present day, with millions of species either passing through on seasonal migrations, or just spreading into new territory (often as a result of human caused changes to their existing environments).
You’ll want to take some time here to read about the various animals depicted in the sculpture. I was extremely surprised to learn that the llama, an animal we often associate with South America, actually first originated in North America some 45 million years ago, only to cross through the Panama isthmus. Similarly, various horses originated in North America but were hunted to extinction by Native American tribes. It wasn’t until the Spanish conquistadors came to the New World with domesticated horses from Europe, that the horse was reintroduced across the American continents.
Human Path
Next, you’ll exit into an outdoor space. The Human Path exhibit is actually housed underneath the BioMuseo’s main atrium. The focus here is on the impact humans have had on Panama’s biodiversity across 150,000 years of history. This information is laid out on 16 columns, broken down across 4 main periods. If you start at the beginning of the timeline, you’ll learn how the first inhabitants of Panama lived off the land and eventually hunted large prehistoric animals such as mastodons to extinction. The development of agriculture by Pre-Hispanic groups many years later led to complex societies and communal structures being established. Forests were transformed for crop growth, though the significance of nature was recognised, with ceramics and other works being decorated by animal depictions.
From there, the story shifts to the impact of humans in Colonial times. The arrival of Europeans to the New World in 1501 significantly changed the relationship between humans and nature in the Americas. Changes to the way people lived occurred as new colonial settlements were established, while diseases and battles shaped both the human and natural spheres. Those changes continued to take place through to contemporary times, which is what the last couple of columns focus on, with events such as the opening of the Panama Canal, and the scientific discoveries and urban development of human life today.
Oceans Divided
Heading back inside into a second building, you’ll reach the BioMuseo’s aquarium. Panama’s formation also led to distinct aquatic ecosystems forming on either side of the isthmus, and that’s exactly what’s explored here, with two giant tanks depicting the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea side by side one another. There’s a similar concept at the Punta Culebra Nature Center’s aquarium up the road, but this is definitely superior as the tanks are much larger and filled with more corals, fish and other aquatic life. With Panama forming a physical barrier between the two water bodies, the two oceans couldn’t be more different.
Want to read about Punta Culebra Nature Center? I’ve covered it HERE.
In the 290,000 litre Caribbean tank, you’ll see the colourful fish that live in its calm and warm waters. The Caribbean is the perfect water body for large reefs to form owing to its year round transparent waters. By contrast, the Pacific Ocean is huge, wide and deep (therefore its fitting that it has the larger tank as well, holding 410,00 litres of sea water). Its nutrient rich waters have led to a complex array of food webs for large schools of fish, some of which you can see in their tank. The species in the Pacific tank were actually collected further off the coast from Panama City as the waters near the museum are heavily polluted.
You’ll want to spend some time comparing the two oceanic displays in this hall (and you’ll get another view from above before leaving the museum), but you can also check out a few smaller displays such as those depicting the difference between living and dead corals.
Living Web
Up next, the Living Web goes big picture, looking at the interactions between microorganisms, insects, animals and plants, with the take home message being the importance of one species’ reliance on a myriad of others to survival. The actual exhibit consists of another set of giant sculptures, this one of the flora and fauna rich rainforest of Islo Barro Colorado, a small island in the middle of the Panama Canal. The various organisms are depicted in ways that represent the complex interactions they utilise to care for others, and there is also information on the role of humans in this great web of life.
An example of the significant relationships between species on display in this gallery can be seen through the fig tree and wasp example. An enlarged fig is split in half to show that the wasp uses it to lay its eggs and reproduce. In return, the wasp brings pollen to the fig, allowing it to continue to germinate. Neither species could survive without the other, and nature is full of relationships just like this.
Panama is the Museum
The final part of the BioMuseo’s permanent galleries is entitled ‘Panama is the Museum’. Its basically a summary that ties everything you’ve learnt about biodiversity and nature throughout your time in the museum. Further emphasis is placed on Panama’s natural uniqueness, and many of its natural and cultural wonders are shown through interactive touch screens that provide further information.
On my visit, there was a space set up for a temporary exhibit after this section. The Extinction travelling exhibit highlighted species that have already become extinct throughout history. There were fossils of creatures ranging from megalodons to dodos in this relatively simple display. It also brought everything full circle, as the final message of my tour of BioMuseo was the fact that an estimated 150 species go extinct each day, with more than 35,000 more in danger of extinction on current trends.
The BioMuseo Park
When you’re finished with the museum itself, its worth spending a bit of time wandering through the BioMuseo’s Park of Biodiversity. The views from the Amador Causeway are stunning enough, but this free outdoor space adds to that with a series of outdoor displays amongst nature. The range of educational exhibits among the beautiful gardens is quite varied, ranging from the Garden of Evolution‘s focus on the history of plant life to the Garden of Life, which focuses on crops and other vegetables. The centrepiece is the great fig tree, under which the interconnected web of life is explored in the Garden of Interdependence.
I didn’t spend a huge amount of time in the Park of Biodiversity, but while getting to my next destination, I strolled along the Promenade of the Canal. This meant that in addition to taking in the views of forested shores on the other side of the Bridge of the Americas, I also was able to learn about the volcanic mountains on the horizon and their role in the surrounding ecosystems. All in, its a clever way to attract curious passers by to learn more in the detailed exhibits inside the BioMuseo.
I was really impressed by the BioMuseo. Having just come from the Punta Culebra Nature Center nearby, I had actually considered skipping this museum, thinking that it would be more of the same content. While there was definitely some overlap, I’m very glad that I visited the BioMuseo. It actually blew me away compared to what I had been expecting in terms of its scope and interactivity. Definitely put the BioMuseo on your itinerary if you’re planning a trip to Panama City.
Have you been to the BioMuseo yet? Which part of the museum is most interesting to you?
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The Intrepid Sea, Air and Space Museum is one of my favourite museums in New York. In a city filled with so many, this museum is extremely memorable – mostly due to the fact that its housed on an actual air freighter. Yes, you read that correctly. The USS Intrepid is permanently marooned nowadays at Pier 86 in the Hudson River. While this vessel saw conflict at the height of World War 2 and beyond, today it offers a chance to learn about US military history through an incredibly immersive setup.
You won’t just learn about the role of the aircraft carrier at the Intrepid Museum though – this vessel provides a truly comprehensive overview on craft that traverse the sea, air and space. You’ll see incredibly fast fighter jets, tour a claustrophobic submarine and even get up close to an actual space shuttle while touring the Intrepid. I was blown away by just how much I was able to see on my visit.
There’s so many cool things to do in New York. If you’re spending a few days in the city, check out my recommended itinerary and guide HERE.
Intrepid Museum – The Basics:
Where?Pier 86, W 46th Street, New York
When? The Museum is open daily from 10.00am to 5.00pm
Admission: General Admission for adults (13 years and over) is $33.00 USD. Children cost $24.00 USD (those 4 years and under get in for free). You can pay extra for additional attractions. The Intrepid Museum is also included in the attraction line up for the New York CityPass and Sightseeing Pass.
How to get there: The Intrepid Museum is docked along the west coast of Manhattan and is a short walk from Midtown (approximately 15 minutes west of Times Square). The nearest subway station is Times Square-42nd Street.
As the fourth ship in the US Navy to carry the Intrepid name, the USS Intrepid that contains New York’s Sea, Air and Space Museum today was commissioned in 1943, at the height of the Second World War. The Intrepid was initially stationed at Pearl Harbour and eventually saw action throughout the Pacific during the global conflict. Its most famous campaign was the Battle of Leyte Gulf, which was the largest naval skirmish of the entire War. The Intrepid survived kamikaze bombings by Japanese forces, and even took four direct hits that failed to sink the vessel (though many crew and personnel were killed).
The Intrepid continued to serve the US navy after the end of World War 2, primarily being used in minor campaigns in the early years of the Cold War. It also played a role acting as a support vessel in the 1962 Mercury-Atlas Space launch (hence its ties to space!). The Intrepid returned to military service during the Vietnam War, before being decommissioned in 1974. Throughout its active tenure, over 50,000 men served onboard.
Believe it or not, the legendary vessel was almost dismantled following its retirement from service. A campaign led by Michael D Piccola of the Odysseys in Flight non-profit saved the carrier from that fate and in 1982 it opened as the Museum of Air, Sea and Space (though it did serve a brief stint as FBI headquarters following the attacks of 9/11). Today, the USS Intrepid is recognised as a National Historic Landmark.
Tips for Visiting the Intrepid Museum
I spent approximately half a day at the Intrepid Museum. I didn’t actually expect to be there that long, but there was more to see than I thought. Your admission ticket doesn’t just include entry to the aircraft carrier and the various exhibits contained within, but it also gets you into a special part of the museum centred around the Enterprise Space Shuttle. You’ll also be able to venture inside the Growler submarine, which is docked alongside the museum’s main pier. If you want to pay extra, you can also take a tour of the super fast Concorde plane and enjoy motion simulators that take you on an immersive journey through military campaigns.
I’ll cover all that in more detail below, but what I’m trying to say is be prepared for the Museum to eat up a chunk of your day. I visited in the afternoon and it wasn’t too crowded. If possible, try to avoid weekends (though other attractions in New York will be more packed with tourists then, so its not the worst plan). As always, purchase your tickets in advance – either on the Museum’s website, or by purchasing a multi-attraction pass such as the CityPass or Sightseeing Pass.
The Museum’s audio guide is excellent and is also included with your admission. Pick it up as soon as you board the freighter. If you plan to follow the tour comprehensively (which I did), it takes about 2 hours. Otherwise, you can just use it in the areas of the freighter that are of specific interest to you. Note that the audio guide is purely focused on the Intrepid, not the other parts of the museum that I’ve mentioned above.
On Board the USS Intrepid
As the Museum’s centrepiece, you should start out your visit on board the Intrepid aircraft carrier itself. The vessel is comprised of a number of levels containing different exhibits.
The Hangar Deck
You’ll enter the Intrepid on the Hangar Deck, which is the Museum’s main exhibition space. There’s a myriad of objects and displays throughout the level, with the first part able to be broken down into two main themes. Along the vessel’s port (left) side, the displays are dedicated to the technical side of the carrier, where you’ll learn about it’s steam catapults, torpedoes, propellors and much more. Meanwhile the starboard (right) side explores the Intrepid’s human history, with sections dedicated to the memory of those who served aboard the vessel. Moving further into the hangar level, you’ll find an assortment of aircraft, such as the TBM-3E Avenger from World War 2, and a multimedia presentation that highlights the kamikaze attacks against the Intrepid.
Further yet, you’ll reach the Exploreum, a fully interactive section of the deck which is especially popular with families with young children. One of the main highlights here is an actual Bell 47 helicopter that you can climb inside. There’s also really cool (and educational) exhibits that demonstrate the skills involved in navigating submarines and aircraft.
At the very rear of the Intrepid’s hangar deck, you’ll find the motion simulators. You’ll have to pay extra ($11 each) if you want to have a go on these multi-sensory adventures. I had a go on the Stories of Intrepid simulator, which is an 8 minute 4D experience, documenting some of the campaigns in which the vessel served. You can also try the G-Force Encounter which emulates the experience of flying a supersonic jet!
The Gallery Deck
The Gallery Deck (upstairs from the Hangar) is comprised of two distinct sections (you can’t go between them and have to access them separately from the Hangar or Flight Decks). This part of the Intrepid Museum is about showcasing the areas where crew members slept and worked while aboard the carrier. You’ll tour areas such as the Ready Room (where pilots were brief before taking to the skies in their fighters) and the Combat Information Center (where intelligence was gathered by radar and other means, and strategies were devised).
Also part of this level is the Fo’c’sle, which is the most forward part of the ship. In this area you’ll come across the Anchor Chain Room (and believe me, they are HUGE!) as well as the berthing areas for officers serving aboard the Intrepid.
The Third Deck
Downstairs from the Hangar Deck, the Intrepid’s Third Deck primarily consists of the areas of the ship where ordinary crew members lived their daily lives. The Mess Deck down here is where meals were prepared and the crew dined while aboard the freighter. Its been completely restored to its original appearance. There’s also a small cafeteria here where you can grab a bite if you get hungry during your tour of the ship.
The General Berthing has also been restored, which is where over 3,000 enlisted sailors and Marines slept at a time while stationed on board. Needless to say, they didn’t have much (or anything) in the way of privacy! While here, you can learn about how crew members kept cool and clean while serving their cause.
The Intrepid’s Flight Deck
One of the coolest (possibly literally in the winter months) parts of the Intrepid is the Flight Deck. Obviously located above all the other decks, this is the open air section of the carrier where aircraft used to land during the ship’s years in action. Today, the Flight Deck hosts a permanent collection of over 24 aircraft restored aircraft that you’ll definitely want to check out. The collection of planes is a representation of all five of the US armed forces (Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force and Coast Guard), as well as an assortment of international craft. They’re all so varied and unique, though I think the one that stood out to be was the black coated Lockheed A-12 (Blackbird) from 1967. Equipped with high power cameras, the military craft was capable of taking photos at heights beyond 80,000 feet.
In addition to the collection of aircraft, you can also access the Intrepid’s Bridge from the Flight Deck (after climbing a bunch of steps). The Navigation Bridge contains a series of charts and other navigational instruments and you’ll learn about how the Intrepid’s crew navigated the oceans while cruising on duty.
An unadvertised attraction of the Flight Deck is the stunning view offered of the Manhattan Skyline from the deck. Spend some time taking in the fresh air before continuing on with your tour.
The Enterprise Space Shuttle Pavilion
So far you would have seen elements of the sea and air, but where’s space represented at the Intrepid Museum? Well, head to the rear of the Flight Deck and you’ll enter the Space Shuttle Pavilion. Entering this special exhibit takes you beyond the atmosphere into the realm of space travel. The pavilion is centred around the MASSIVE space shuttle Enterprise. While the Enterprise itself never went to space, it played a key role in launching NASA’s shuttle program, being used to perform atmospheric flight tests in the 1970s before future shuttles ventured beyond our planet.
The Intrepid Museum acquired the Enterprise in 2012, and it was transported to New York through a series of carefully planned flights atop custom modified 747-planes. Quite the feat! Today, its one of only four remaining NASA shuttles. Upon entering the pavilion, my mind was blown, walking underneath the 122 foot long, 76 foot wide shuttle. When you manage to draw yourself away from it, you can also take in a series of educational exhibits that document the life of astronauts in space, in addition to matters such as shuttle design and flight testing. There’s also a myriad of displays focusing on the physical dimension of space – you’ll learn about galaxies, nebulae, the Hubble Telescope and so much more.
The Growler Submarine
The Growler Submarine is docked at the Museum’s entrance pier and is included in your admission. Its the only American guided missile submarine that is open to the public. Stepping inside is a memorable, if slightly claustrophobic experience (especially when it comes to the doorways). The Growler dates back to the Cold War, when it was stationed off the east coast of the Soviet Union from 1958 to 1964. Its primary function was one of deterrence against the USSR from unleashing a nuclear attack upon the US, and it achieved this by carrying a powerful Regulus I missile.
Prior to boarding the submarine (there may be a queue at busier times of day), you’ll pass through a brief exhibit that documents the historical context, providing information about the escalation of tensions throughout the Cold War between the world’s superpowers. There’s also an interactive station that focuses on the sonar technology that submarines use to identify objects in their vicinity. From there, you’ll head inside the sub and pass through its various chambers, seeing control rooms, living spaces, torpedo storage and more. You’ll definitely gain an appreciation for how hard it must be to be stationed on one of these vessels for any period of time, what with the lack of space on board!
The Concorde
You’ll also see the super impressive Concorde aeroplane on the Pier at the Museum’s entrance. Upon hearing that the Concorde was at the Museum, I remembered learning about it in school and was interested in seeing it first hand. This “built for speed” commercial airliner crossed the Atlantic Ocean in a record 2 hours, 52 minutes and 56 seconds on February 7, 1996. It had actually been flying since 1976, and was operated jointly by British Airways and Air France. Environmental protests and a tragic crash on takeoff in Paris in 2000 led to the Concorde fleet being grounded and eventually retired from service in 2003, however there’s no questioning the innovation behind this super fast jetliner.
You can view the Concorde from the outside and walk underneath its standout design as part of any trip to the Intrepid Museum. If you want to go inside though, you’ll have to book a special tour (which costs $7.00 for adults). The tour lasts 20 minutes, with new tours departing every half hour. You should book your time at the same time that you book your Museum tickets to avoid disappointment (though if there’s availability, you can also buy tickets at the Museum). On board you’ll see the luxurious cabins and even get to sit in the first class section for a few minutes.
With so much to see at the Intrepid Museum, you can hopefully now understand just how easy it is to spend half a day at this amazing New York Landmark. If you’re interested in military history, engineering, science or anything remotely associated with the stuff on display here, visiting the Intrepid while in New York is a no-brainer. There’s arguably no Museum in the city that is more immersive than this one. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit, and I hope you will too! If you’ve been to the Intrepid Museum which part did you find the most interesting?Let me know if you were blown away by this New York attraction as much as I was!
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