Templo Mayor: Uncovering the City Under Mexico City

The Templo Mayor is the most significant Aztec monument that occupied the site of modern day Mexico City. While today, Mexico’s Centro Historico is filled with colonial buildings and churches, street performers and bustling cantinas and taquerias, the ruins of another city lay underneath. Long before the arrival of the Spanish, the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan was the centre of religious and political life for the Aztec (Mexica) people. Their city was constructed around a dual temple paying tribute to two of their most significant gods – Huizilopochtli and Tlaloc. At its apex, the Templo Mayor reached over 60 metres in height. Despite its grandeur, it was largely forgotten in the centuries following its fall, until chance discovery in the 1970s ushered in a massive excavation project.

Visiting the Templo Mayor is an essential stop in Mexico City’s Centro Historico. While its not as well preserved as many other ancient sites in the country, the old city of Tenochtitlan is a crucial part of the nation’s history, and is today is a UNESCO heritage site. In this post, I’ll let you know what to expect when you visit.

• Headed to Mexico City? Check out my recommended 3 day itinerary HERE.

Templo Mayor – The Basics

• Where? Semario 8, Centro Historico de la Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico
• When? The Templo Mayor is open from 9.00am to 5.00pm Tuesdays to Sundays (closed Mondays).
• How much? General admission to the Templo Mayor site for adults costs $90 MXN, while children (13 years and under) can enter for free.
• How to get there: The Templo Mayor ruins are right next to the Catedral Metropolitana, in the very heart of Mexico City’s Centro Historico. Get to the Zocalo square and you’ll find the site to the north east of the main plaza.
• Website: https://www.templomayor.inah.gob.mx/

What was Tenochtitlan?

The city of Tenochtitlan was established around 1325 and was a centralised power hub in the Aztec Empire, one of the most powerful pre-Hispanic people in Mexican history. Originally migrating from the nation’s Central Plateau, the Aztecs famously founded Tenochtitlan on a journey towards the Valley of Mexico. Upon reaching a swampy islet of Lake Texcoco, legend claims that the city’s founders witnessed an eagle standing on a cactus and devouring a snake. According to their spiritual beliefs, this was a sign to stop and build their great capital at that same location. They would expand their power beyond the city through conquest and incorporation of other tribes and people groups.

By the early 16th century, Tenochtitlan was a sophisticated city state which exerted its influence across much of Central Mexico and beyond. The Tlatoani (effectively governor) of Tenochtitlan was regarded an embodiment of the supreme deity and the highest power in all spheres of Aztec life. Built atop the lake, the city was especially notable for its canal thoroughfares. In many areas, the city was supported by mud and raised gardens called chinampas, on which the population developed a harvest driven economy.

The last ruler of Tenochtitlan was the famous Moctezuma Xocoyotzin, better known as Moctezuma II. Tenochtitlan would fall following the arrival of the Spanish in 1519, which in a few short years essentially led to the eradication of the Aztec Empire.

What is the Templo Mayor?

The Templo Mayor was the most important religious building in all of Tenochtitlan. Initially constructed with the city’s founding, the temple was enlarged many times over the following two centuries of Aztec rule. By the early 16th century, it had been enlarged 7 times, with expansion efforts generally being carried out following a new ruler coming to power. In addition to being a shrine dedicated to two of the most important Aztec gods, the Templo Mayor was very much regarded a symbol of the city’s wealth and grandeur.

Duality is a key motif in the design of the Templo Mayor. While its hard to imagine what the site looked like on a visit today, at its peak, the Templo Mayor consisted of two twin pyramids, with side by side temples on their adjoined summit. One temple was dedicated to Huitzilopochtli, the god of war and the sun, while the other worshipped Tlaloc, the god of rain and agriculture. Both deities were frequently appeased by human sacrifices, and it is believed that the bodies of victims were thrown down the dual staircases of the temple to be discarded. This practice was symbolic of the legend in which Huitzilopochtli murdered his sister Coyolxauhqui for killing their mother. In the tale, Coyolxauhqui, the moon goddess was thrown from a temple hill, with the story symbolising the cosmic struggle as the sun defeats the moon each morning.

It wasn’t until February 21, 1978 that electric company workers digging at the site uncovered a monolith of the aforementioned moon goddess. That discovery prompted the clearing of 4 city blocks to uncover the base of the temple, with excavation continuing to this day.

Entering Templo Mayor

I visited the Templo Mayor in the afternoon after spending time outside the city at the historical site of Teotihuacan. This set of ruins is not comparable to the pyramids you’ll find there, so honestly I wasn’t overly excited when I arrived here. That said, its not every day you can walk among significant historical ruins in the middle of a city’s main district. For that reason, everyone that visits Mexico City should stop by the remains of the Templo Mayor. As with most archaeological sites in Mexico City, admission is super cheap, and you’ll need to pay in cash on arrival (no online preordering). You can take photos throughout the site, but no flash.

The sheltered entry area contains some basic information about the temple, as well as a few excavated relics. New items continue to be found as archeologists continue to work on the site. On my visit, a ceremonial platform from 1469 was on display in this space, having only been recovered in 2011. It was believed to have been used in cremation ceremonies of Aztec rulers. There’s also a model in this entrance hall depicting a recreated version of the Templo Mayor and all its layers. Since the temple was desecrated and pilfered by the Spanish to build new projects (such as their gigantic cathedral next door), this model helps you visualise the marvel of the shrine that used to stand on the mass of carved rocks that cover the site today.

• I’ve written a post about the Catedral Metropolitana, which you can read HERE.

The Ruins of the Sacred Precinct

Moving outside, you enter on a series of walkways that pass over the ruins of the Sacred Precinct, the 1.2 hectare space of ruins that made up the foundations of Templo Mayor. As you venture across the archeological zone, you’ll notice the layers of stone craft throughout the site, offering evidence of the temple’s various construction stages.

The southern half of the ruins were part of the temple devoted to Huitzilopochtli and contain a sacrificial stone in the god’s image. To the north, you’ll find a chac-mool icon representing Tlaloc. On his side of the temple, you’ll also see the Altar of Frogs, where stone figures of these water loving creatures are closely associated with the latter deity.

A series of stone braziers and serpent heads can also be found in a number of locations throughout the southern part of the complex. The bow markings on these braziers are symbolic of Huitzilopochtli. Various other snake depictions can be found throughout the ruins, the significance of many which have not yet been realised.

The ruins of Templo Mayor are surrounded on all sides by the bustling Mexican capital of today, and everywhere you look you’ll be reminded that you’re in a thriving urban environment – a far cry from most excavation sites. There’s actually a great viewpoint from a window in the neighbouring Museo del Templo Mayor that overlooks the ruins with the Catedral Metropolitana standing right behind it. Its a poignant reminder that Mexico City truly is a city built on another.

The Museo del Templo Mayor

The Museo del Templo Mayor entrance is on the far side of the archeological zone, and entry is included with your admission. This is where I spent most of my time at the Templo Mayor complex. Its filled with artefacts excavated from the ruins and also provides a comprehensive overview of various aspects surrounding the temple and Aztec beliefs and culture. Its also rather unique in its design, consisting of a series of four levels, with two exhibits on each floor, meant to represent the dual pyramids that stood on the site. You visit them in a linear fashion, going up one and down the other, with the top two exhibits focusing on the two deities worshipped here by the Aztecs.

Passing through the entrance hall and its replica wall of skulls (the original of which can be seen at the Altar of Tzompantli in the ruins outside), the first section of the Museum serves as an introduction to the archeological expeditions that have been carried out at Templo Mayor since 1978. In this hall you’ll find site dioramas and documents chronicling the work done ever since the chance discovery of that first monolith stone.

Rituals, Sacrifice, Tribute and Trade

The Museum’s second chamber focuses on the various rituals undertaken by the Aztec people. Known for their human sacrifices and other ceremonies, this room contains numerous objects that played important roles in those practices. Some of the more notable objects include funerary paraphernalia such as urns that were used to entomb the remains of Tenochtitlan nobility. Some of the urns on display are among the oldest objects found at Templo Mayor.

Following on from this hall, the next part of the museum dives into the expansion of the Aztec Empire through trade and tribute. The Aztecs were fighters, conquering numerous neighbouring powers and demanding tribute from their new subjects. A number of relics are displayed throughout this chamber. They would have been obtained by the Aztecs from all over their empire. One object in particular that drew my attention was a green stone mask acquired from the old city of Teotihuacan. At the time it came into Aztec possession, the mask would have already been at least 800 years old!

Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc

The next exhibit takes you to the top floor of the Museum. Here you’ll learn more about Huitzilopochtli, the patron deity of the Aztecs. Despite the Temple also being dedicated to Tlaloc, Huitzilopochtli was generally regarded the more important deity. There are numerous objects in the hall with some connection to the Aztec War God, including various “Eagle Man” sculptures, often said to resemble the rising sun. I’ve already touched on the significance of that imagery when linked to the story of Huitzilopochtli and Coyolxuahqui, and the displays dive further into that as well. A massive snake head sculpture (known as the Xiuhcoatl, or “Fire Serpent”) sits in the hall, and it symbolises the weapon used by Huitzilopochtli to defeat his sister. The massive monolith depicting Coyolxuahqui’s vanquishing sits at the bottom of the museum, but the best views of it are also from up here.

The adjoining display on the other side of the building shifts the focus onto Tlaloc, the Aztec rain god. Tlaloc was worshipped by pre-Hispanic groups in Mexico much further back than Huitzilopochtli and was believed to preside over a watery realm called Tlalocan. There’s numerous depictions of the deity here, ranging from decorated pots to stone reliefs. One piece that I spent time admiring was a relief depiction of both Tlaloc and the earth deity Tlaltecuhti. Tlaloc was believed to bring the rains and therefore was instrumental in providing a good harvest season. As you read more about Tlaloc’s role in Aztec spirituality, you’ll realise there is no coincidence that the following halls are contained in his “half” of the Museum complex.

The Flora, Fauna and Agriculture of Tenochtitlan

Descending down the second half of the Museum, there’s a noticeable shift in the exhibits as you enter the Flora & Fauna Hall. Instead of ancient relics, you’re surrounded by the various species of plants and animals that were found in and around Tenochtitlan. Many of the remains of species found throughout the site are thought to have come from offerings made at the Temple. The myriad remains of species as varied as the jaguar to the pufferfish can be found in this exhibit, and I really liked the way the skeletons of these species were put together in front of models of the actual creatures. One of the most important discoveries of animal remains at Templo Mayor consisted of the skeleton of a complete puma, found with a green funeral stone in its jaws (a common noble funerary practice in Aztec culture).

The room below is all about Aztec agriculture. Here, you’ll learn all about the chinampas, the series of artificial land plots built over the lake at Tenochtitlan. Its a great spot to learn a bit before heading to the remaining chinampas at Xochimilco later in your Mexico City trip. In addition to the farming fields models in this hall, you’ll find various utensils used by crop farmers in Aztec times, as well as objects devoted to deities such as Chicomecoatl and Xipe-Totec, among others, highlighting the multifaceted significance of crop production for the population of the floating city.

The Hall of Historical Archaeology

The last section of the Templo Mayor Museum focuses on the massive changes that came to the site following the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. An emphasis is placed on the way in which the Spanish repurposed the sacred statues, columns and other relics from the Aztec city to be used as bases of columns for their own structures, most notably Catedral Metropolitana. In addition to the Aztec artefacts, the collection also contains a number of post-colonial treasures, such as an offering lid inscribed in 1721 which was found in the gigantic cathedral. In fact, the entire exhibit serves as a timeline from conquest to the 20th century.

Despite this shift to the site’s post-Aztec history, the final centrepiece is a large image of Tlaltecuhtli, the Aztec “Lord of the Earth”. This monolith was only found in 2006 and is thought to have been laid at the very base of the Templo Mayor in Tenochtitlan’s earliest years. Its a reminder that with the passage of time, more and more treasures are still being uncovered from this culturally rich site.

I really think you should stop by Templo Mayor, even if only briefly, when you visit Mexico City. I knew that Mexico City was built atop of the Aztec civilisation prior to my visit, but this museum and archaeological site puts that into greater focus. What would you like to learn more about when visiting this impressive Aztec Temple?