The Best Art Deco in Miami: A Self Guided Tour

Miami is known for so many things – warm weather, sandy beaches, delicious food and refreshing cocktails, just to name a few. But there is perhaps nothing more definitively Miami than the assortment of Art Deco hotels and buildings found throughout South Beach. You really need to spend an hour or two to check out these iconic structures. With the National Register of Historic Buildings recognising over 800 in the city, I highly doubt you’ll see them all. Thankfully, the best Art Deco in Miami can be found in a relatively contained area, between 8th and 14th streets. In this post, I’m going to take you on a self guided tour of this area. If its your first time in Miami Beach, this is a great way to spend a morning.

• If you’re visiting Miami for the first time, you should check out my recommended itinerary for spending 3 days in Miami. You can read it HERE.

What is Art Deco?

Before we dive into the best Art Deco in Miami, I should make sure you know what we’re talking about. Art Deco took the world by storm in the 1920s and 30s. It first emerged in the wake of the 1923 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris. The design style is often characterised by symmetry, bold colours and clean lines. The specific type of Art Deco that took over Miami in this era is often referred to as “Tropical Deco”. Key aspects associated with Art Deco designs include its use of inexpensive materials, recurring flamingos, sunbursts and nautical motifs, neon lights and sleekly curved windows.

The History of Art Deco in Miami

But why did this style take over Miami? To answer that question, you need to travel back to 1926. In that year, Miami (and much of South Florida) was devastated by a terrible hurricane. In the aftermath of it’s destruction, the region was going through a rebirth, with tourists flooding into the city to chase the sun for summer vacations. To meet the accommodation demand, hundreds of hotels were erected in the style of the day, transforming South Beach into an Art Deco gold mine.

While the Art Deco Historic District is an enduring icon of Miami today, this wasn’t always the case. Following the initial boom, there was a period in which South Beach actually fell into significant decline. Over a number of decades, it got to the point where the once vibrant neighbourhood was under threat of demolition. In 1976, community activist Barbara Baer Capitman (who had moved to the city 3 years prior), founded the Miami Design Preservation League. The group banded together and campaigned to save the neglected buildings, often organising protests and vigils at demolition sites. This movement culminated in Miami’s Art Deco Historic District being placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979. It was the first urban district from the 20th century to attain this accolade.

Following the efforts of the Preservation League, Ocean Drive’s run-down hotels were revitalised and painted in brilliant pastel colours. It is often said that the work of Capitman’s campaign was responsible for Miami’s cultural and touristic revival. You can read a plaque chronicling Barbara Capitman’s story near the starting point of this tour.

Art Deco Museum

• Where? 1001 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach, Florida
• When? 9.00am – 5.00pm daily
• How much? $5.00 USD for adults
• Website: https://mdpl.org/welcome-center/art-deco-museum/

Located on the beach side of Ocean Drive, around 10th street, there’s no better place to start your tour of Miami Beach’s Art Deco scene than the Art Deco Museum. Its only a small museum, but it provides a brilliant overview of the district’s history and its various design styles. Naturally, a large component of the exhibition takes you through the story of Barbara Capitman’s efforts to save the district. There’s also a vast assortment of models, photos, videos and objects that help you understand the significance of Miami’s Art Deco movement. If you start your tour here, you’ll have a much greater appreciation of the rest of the locations you’ll be seeing in the area.

The Museum is run by the Miami Design Preservation League (yes, the same one founded by Capitman) and also runs guided tours of the district. They run for 1.5 to 2 hours each, and cost $35 USD for adults. Bookings are highly recommended, as they are known to sell out. I didn’t take a guided tour, though I have heard the guides are extremely knowledgeable. With that said, I personally felt that I got a lot out of my self-guided tour of the area (I generally prefer to see places at my own pace) so I personally probably wouldn’t go with one. Don’t let me discourage you though!

Hotel Breakwater

Exiting the Art Deco Museum, you can’t miss the Hotel Breakwater. Its practically across the road (about half a block south). Its one of my favourite examples of Art Deco in Miami. Instantly recognisable owing to its neon-lit central tower, the Breakwater was constructed in 1939 and designed by Yugoslav architect Anton Sckislewicz. The tower is said to imitate the stack or funnel, while the railings along the building’s roof are similar to those found on the decks of cruise vessels. There’s no doubting the nautical imagery here.

Today, the Breakwater is still a boutique hotel. There’s 99 highly sought modern rooms in the property. It also has its own pool and private beach, along with a restaurant that extends out onto Ocean Drive. While I haven’t set foot inside Hotel Breakwater, I stopped to take it in every time I walked along Ocean Drive. To me, this is the single Art Deco Building that best embodies Miami Beach. But don’t worry, there’s still many more to come on this tour!

The Leslie, Carlyle and Cardozo – An Art Deco Trio

Head about 3 blocks north from the Breakwater, and you’ll come to a marvellous trio of very different hotels built in the art deco style. The first you’ll come to is the Leslie. Dating back to 1937, you might recognise this bright yellow building from the opening of Ace Ventura: Pet Detective. The boxy building has the tripartite design found on many art deco buildings in Miami, with its window shading stretching around its sides. These “eyebrows” are a common feature in Miami’s art deco designs, as they blocked out heat in the days before air-conditioning was a thing.

Right next door, you’ll find the Carlyle. This hotel was built in 1939 and appeared in The Birdcage, a 90s film starring Robin Williams. Its modernistic style sees a series of curved canopies jut out from the building’s levels. The white and teal building was designed by Richard Kiehnel and John Elliott, and is remarkably different from its neighbour.

Then, we’ve got the Cardozo. Its on the other side of 13th street (I know the buildings are spectacular, but check for traffic!) Designed by Henry Hohauser, it was completed the same year as the Carlyle. Unlike its box-like neighbours, curves take over all aspects of this hotel, including its corners.

Want to see a bonus Art Deco masterpiece? Head an extra block north to the Winter Haven Hotel. Also from 1939 (trend much?) this hotel underwent extensive renovations in 2008, though it very much retains its original charm (as required in all developments in the neighbourhood). Make sure you step inside to see it’s renowned terrazzo floors.

From Ocean Drive to Washington Avenue

Miami’s Art Deco Historic District extends beyond Ocean Drive. When you get to the Winter Haven, you should turn left and head down 14th street for a few blocks. Take a left when you get to Washington Avenue and you’ll come across many more Art Deco delights. At the 13th street intersection, you’ll find the US Post Office building. This curved white cone was designed by Howard Lovewell Cheney in 1937. Its most defining feature is probably its huge double door and glass block frame. If you go inside (its still a working post office today), you’ll see a number of murals depicting military campaigns throughout the history of Florida.

If you’re getting hungry on your Art Deco tour, why not dine in a landmark building as well? The 11th Street Diner (naturally found at the 11th Street intersection of Washington Avenue) was actually constructed in New Jersey in 1948. The gleaming aluminium structure was ultimately transported by truck from Pennsylvania in 1992. When you step inside, you’ll get instant American diner vibes and be able to dine on classic burgers, ribs, mac n cheese and so much more.

Head another block south after your feed and cross the road to the Hotel Astor. This 1936 masterpiece was also the product of an extensive restoration effort. Despite its modern interior decor, the building’s classical symmetric design harkens back to its original style.

The Wolfsonian – FIU

• Where? 1001 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida
• When? 10.00am – 6.00pm Wednesday to Sunday (and until 9.00pm on Friday).
• How much? $12.00 USD for adults ($6.00 for children 6 to 18 years old).
• Website: https://wolfsonian.org/

Back across Washington Avenue, you’ll see a large and imposing building. Originally housing the Washington Storage Company, the building was initially a place for Miami’s 1920s wealthy clientele to store their belongings when travelling north. Today, a campus of the Florida International University, the Wolfsonian contains a library and research centre, and of particular interest to tourists, a museum devoted to all things interior design. The collection contains around 180,000 pieces of art and design from different countries, chronicling the evolution of everyday life from 1885 to 1945. It makes for an interesting break after spending time on the street checking out the exterior facades of buildings from a partly overlapping period. There’s also a cafe with terrazzo floors inside. The flooring was designed by the same person (Michele Oka Doner) who designed the flooring in Miami International Airport.

Looping Back to Where We Started

When you’re finished at the Wolfsonian, there’s a few more spots to see nearby to wind up your Art Deco in Miami tour. When you get to 8th Street, cut back in the direction of the beach. At Collins Avenue, you’ll see the Tony Hotel. It still bears its iconic central spire from its days as the Tiffany. Not far along Collins, the Sherwood Hotel Apartments is another building that oozes Miami vibes.Complete the loop of this tour by getting back onto Ocean Drive. Just before you hit the Breakwater, you’ll see the Ocean’s Ten Restaurant, a legendary venue at 960 Ocean Drive. Its another Henry Hohauser masterpiece.

Depending how much time you spend in the museums, this self-guided tour of Miami’s Art Deco Historic District will take around 1 to 2 hours. I really enjoyed walking around and taking in these sights. In addition to getting some fantastic photos and learning about Miami’s history, it serves as a great opportunity to get oriented with Miami Beach in general. I highly recommend spending some time doing a similar walk early in your Miami stay. What is your favourite Art Deco building in Miami? Are there parts of the district that I’ve missed that you recommend checking out? Have you learnt any interesting trivia on an Art Deco in Miami tour? I’d love to hear from you!