The Fine Arts of Palacio de Bellas Artes
The Palacio de Bellas Artes is one of the most famous buildings in Mexico City. In my opinion, its also the most beautiful. This elaborate theatre is right on the western edge of the Mexican capital’s Historic District and has become a major hub of the city’s arts scene. I walked past the Palacio de Bellas Artes numerous times on my visit to Mexico City, and every time I had to stop to take in the view. I’m sure you’ll find yourself doing the same in Mexico City. It would be a shame to just take in Bellas Artes’ facade from the outside though. The interior of the building contains some of the finest murals and other artworks that you’ll find in Mexico. Take the time to go inside and see them for yourself!
- Planning a trip to Mexico City? The Palacio de Bellas Artes is only one of the many places you need to visit. Check out my detailed 3 day itinerary for Mexico City HERE.
Palacio de Bellas Artes – The Basics
- Where? Corner of Avenue Juarez and Eje Central, Centro Historico de la Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico.
- When? The Palacio de Bellas Artes is open from 11.00am to 5.00pm Tuesdays to Sundays (closed Mondays).
- How much? Entrance to the art museum in the Palacio de Bellas Artes costs $70 MXN for adults. On Sundays, entry is free.
- How to get there: The Palacio de Bellas Artes sits on the western edge of the Centro Historico, and is right next to the Alameda Central park. Its in walking distance from anywhere in the area.
- Website: https://palacio.bellasartes.gob.mx/
About the Palacio de Bellas Artes
The Palacio de Bellas Artes was first commissioned by President Porfirio Diaz in 1905 to serve as a city concert hall. It was designed by the Italian architect, Adamo Boari. Boari drew from the Art Nouveau and Neo-Classical styles to create a marble palace with a number of cupolas covered by orange and yellow tiles. The largest cupola, the central dome, would bear a Mexican eagle sculpture, surrounded by various figures from the dramatic arts. Construction was not straightforward however, with Mexico City’s spongy soil causing the marble shell to sink in. The Mexican Revolution also broke out in 1910, which put a halt on the project.
Post- Revolution, the interior of the Palacio de Bellas Artes was designed by Federico Mariscal. His vision saw a complete contrast to the exterior. The inside of the building was filled with Art Deco influence in the way of coloured geometrical shapes and crystal chandeliers. The project was finally completed in 1934.
The Palacio de Bellas Artes has since evolved into a highly respected institution, hosting live performances such as seasonal opera and the National Symphonic Orchestra. It also houses the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico twice a week, whose offerings showcase various cultural dances ranging from pre to post-Hispanic Mexican history. Going to a show at Bellas Artes is also the only way you’ll be able to see the famous stained glass curtain inside the main auditorium. It was designed by Gerard Murillo (Dr Atl) and assembled from millions of coloured pieces of Tiffany & Co glass.
The Murals of Palacio de Bellas Artes
The main reason to come to Bellas Artes as a tourist is to see the outstanding collection of murals on the walls of the main atrium. They line the exterior of the second and third floor. You’ll have to buy a ticket to gain entry (you can’t see much from the ground floor). You buy your ticket from counters in the building’s entry lobby. The best pieces of art can be found on the third level of Bellas Artes. I recommend spending time up here to admire them all, but I’ll focus on a few notable pieces.
Alegoria del Viento o El Angel de la Paz o la Aviacion
The oldest mural in Palacio de Bellas Artes is this 1928 work by Roberto Montenegro. Translating to ‘Allegory of the Wind, or the Angel of Peace, or Aviation’, there’s no missing the depiction of a giant angel, which fills most of the piece. Underneath the wing spreading figure, you can see personifications of the wind blowing from beneath. Unlike many of the other murals in the theatre, the work doesn’t contain a deeper narrative. The straight lines in the work match the art deco interior of the theatre however. It wasn’t commissioned for Bellas Artes though. It was actually transferred here from the former Colegio Maximo de San Pedro y San Pablo (being the only mural from there that could survive the humidity of the new location). Regardless, its a piece fitting of the grandeur of its new home.
El Hombre en El Cruce de Caminos o El Hombre Controlador del Universo
Perhaps the most famous mural at Bellas Artes is this 1934 work by Diego Rivera. It depicts a battle between capitalism and communism, with key figures from both sides of the political spectrum recognisable in the mural. This mural is most known for being Rivera’s act of revenge against John Rockefeller of New York fame. The artist had originally been commissioned to create a similar mural in the Rockefeller Center, however the commissioning magnate would have it destroyed prior to completion over its representation of Lenin and other communist themes. Rockefeller himself can be seen in the Bellas Artes version. He is socialising amongst the rich and famous, underneath a swath of parasitic cells. Point made, Diego.
Mexico Folklorico y Turistico and Dictadura (Poliptico Carnaval de la Vida Mexicana)
Another political piece by Rivera here, this one consisting of four parts. There’s a similar story behind their inception as well. Diego was commissioned by Alberto Pani to create a series of works for his Hotel Reforma. Once again, the controversial artist inserted a number of controversial images. This time, he satirised white tourists depicting them as clowns and animals. Pani actually modified the mural to get rid of these images, but was sued by Rivera, who subsequently was able to restore the artwork in its original form. While the hotel responded by sticking the pieces into storage, they ultimately made their way to Bellas Artes in 1963.
La Nueva Democracia
Another artist that is heavily represented in the Palacio de Bellas Artes is David Alfaro Siqueiros. One of his more prominent works is the so-called ‘New Democracy’, in which a naked woman is shown attempting to break free from her chains. It was painted after the Second World War, supposedly to celebrate the triumph of democracy over fascism. Like many pieces on display in Bellas Artes today, the mural painting was criticised at the time of its creation, but now occupies a central spot in the gallery.
Apteosis de Cuauhtemoc o Cuauhtemoc Redivivio and Tormento de Cuauhtemoc (Dipitico Monumento a Cuauhtemoc)
Finally, we’ve got another piece by David Alfaro Siqueiros, though its actually made of two contrasting panels. One panel is a representation of the historical Spanish conquest over the Aztecs. Their ruler, Cuauhtemoc, is shown being tortured by flames until he reveals the location of his people’s treasures. The other image depicts an alternate reality, one where the Aztecs were victorious against the Conquistadors. In that piece, the Aztec ruler is shown standing tall against the Spaniards. In this work, Cuauhtemoc stands tall in the face of his attackers, defend his empire. Its rather interesting to see the two works side by side, created by the same artist. It really exemplifies the way in which the Spanish invasion of Mexico was a pivotal moment in the nation’s history.
Other Things to See
When you’ve finished checking out the murals at Bellas Artes, there’s more to see and do. The National Institute of Fine Arts also runs a number of temporary exhibitions at the venue, focused on numerous aspects of art. At the time of my visit (although I believe both have since closed), there was an exhibition focused on Mexico’s surrealist art movement, as well as a section displaying the late Rina Lazo’s depiction of the Mayan underworld. Unlike many art galleries that I’ve visited, entry to these temporary exhibits was actually included with general admission so its worth checking out whats on even if you normally wouldn’t do so.
The fourth floor of Bellas Artes contains the Museo Nacional de Arquitectura. I didn’t get up here during my visit (as I was ready for dinner by that point!), but this mini-museum highlights Mexico City’s architecture. From what I understand, you’ll find historic photos, floor plans and other memorabilia on display. If you’re an architect buff it probably warrants a look, though admission is an extra $65 MXN. The signage marking the entrance to the exhibition space isn’t obvious, but you’ve basically got to take the elevator to the top floor of the building.
As you can tell, there’s a lot to see in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, especially if you’re an art buff (but what else would you expect from a Fine Arts Palace?!). I had a great time checking out the murals, although I didn’t spend much time in the other exhibits of the building. I’m still glad I got to see some of Mexico’s best (and most controversial) artworks in this incredible beautiful palace of a theatre. Whats your favourite work of fine art in the Palacio de Bellas Artes?