The Plazas and Churches of the Casco Viejo

I spent a fair bit of time wandering about the Casco Viejo during my stay in Panama City, especially during the evenings. This restored historic old town is a far cry from the modern, business oriented Downtown of Panama’s capital. The Casco Viejo is the best way to experience the Spanish colonial roots of the city. As you might expect, its filled with plazas, churches, historic sites and more. There’s also a number of stores, bars and restaurants worth checking out. While I think its best to wander this neighbourhood and take in the general ambience, there are a few notable places you should incorporate into your strolls. In this post, I’ll be highlighting some of the most important locations in Panama’s old town.

• Want to get out of the Casco Viejo but have limited time to see Panama City? Check out my 24 hour itinerary guide HERE.

What is the Casco Viejo?

Casco Viejo (also referred to as Casco Antiguo) is Panama City’s historic old quarter. The neighbourhood is recognised as a UNESCO heritage site and dates back to the late 15th century. Casco Viejo was established in 1671, when the original Spanish settlement in the area was destroyed by the pirate Captain Henry Morgan. The site for the new settlement was chosen for its surrounding reefs and low sea levels at low tide offering protection from attackers. A massive wall was erected around the Casco Viejo at the time, hence the literal translation of the neighbourhood’s name – ‘Old Compound’, though the wall has since been removed.

Casco Viejo was the heart of Panama City for centuries. Over time however the population grew, causing the city’s boundaries to expand. That led to the centre of Panama City shifting to the east, where you can see its modern skyline today. As the elite and upper echelons of society left Casco Viejo behind, it deteriorated into a slum through much of the 20th century.

In modern times, Casco Viejo has been extensively and immaculately renovated. Today, the neighbourhood allows guests to step back into time, experiencing a city much like it would have been centuries ago. The restoration works have been lauded and were key to the neighbourhood’s UNESCO status being granted in 2003.

Don’t Mix it up with the Panama Viejo

When visiting Panama City, don’t confuse the Casco Viejo with the Panama Viejo. The latter term relates to the ruins of the original Spanish settlement to the north-east. Panama Viejo was founded by the conquistador Pedro Arias de Avila on 15 August 1519, and was actually the first European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas. It played a key role in the gold and silver trade, with the Spaniards moving supplies from their South American Empire here for export back to the motherland.

That accumulated wealth made the old settlement a target for raiders and privateers. In 1671, Henry Morgan’s fleet attacked the non-fortified Panama Viejo by land. The Spanish decided to meet their assailants in the nearby hills, but were decimated. Panama Viejo was plundered and fell into abandonment for nearly 300 years. The ruins obtained UNESCO heritage status in 1996, however most of the former city had already been dismantled by this time.

Plaza de la Independencia (Independence Square)

The heart of Casco Viejo is Plaza de la Independencia, which marks the site where Panama declared its independence from Colombia on 3 November 1903. One thing I didn’t realise before visiting Panama was that the country actually celebrates two independence days – the aforementioned date, as well as the date of independence from Spain on 28 November 1821. Independence Square is filled with busts and sculptures of key figures involved in the separation of Panama from Colombia, hence establishing the country’s own sovereignty.

Catedral Metropolitana

The city cathedral, also known as the Basilica de Santa Maria de Antigua (Saint Mary the Ancient) is the most notable landmark at Plaza de la Independencia (and possibly all of Casco Viejo). Its one of the largest churches in Central America and took over one hundred years to build. At the time of the church’s completion in 1796, its two towers were actually the tallest structures in Casco Viejo. The church’s crypt is the burial site for Panama’s archbishops, and was inaugurated by Pope Francis in 2019, following extensive restorative works being carried out. Its a pretty important church to say the least, and it is the one to see if you only have time for one.

Museums of Casco Viejo

Independence Square is also home to two of the more notable museums in Casco Viejo. The Museo de Historia de Panama (Historical Museum) is located on the ground floor of the Municipal Palace, a building which dates back to 1910. The small museum contains exhibits and artefacts covering Panama’s history from colonial to modern times. Admission is extremely affordable at $1 USD and it is open weekdays from 10.00am to 5.00pm.

Probably the most popular museum in Casco Viejo is the Museo del Canal Interoceanico de Panama. This Museum is housed within the French Canal Company’s former headquarters off Independence Square and is all about Panama’s famous Canal. While I highly recommend visiting Panama Canal itself while you’re in Panama City, this Museum is a good choice if you don’t have time to get there. Most of the signage is in Spanish, but you can take an English audio tour. Its another small museum, open 10.00am – 6.00pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission will set you back $15.00 USD for adults. You can read more about the museum on its official website.

Plaza Bolivar

A few blocks north-east of Plaza de la Independencia is another major city square of Casco Viejo. Plaza Bolivar is named after the revolutionary Simon Bolivar, who in 1826 held a meeting in one of the buildings bordering the plaza, urging for a union of Latin American nations. Bolivar’s dreams were eventually achieved with the creation of Gran Colombia – a state that included Colombia (and therefore Panama), Ecuador, Venezuela, Peru and Bolivia, however the union quickly fell apart. Despite this, Bolivar is celebrated throughout much of Latin America as a hero, and there is a large statue dedicated to him at the centre of the park in this square.

While there are many excellent restaurants in Casco Viejo, I really enjoyed the meal I ate at Restaurante Casa Blanca, which can be found just off Plaza Bolivar. Definitely check it out if you’re in the area around dinner time.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis

While the Teatro Nacional (National Theater) gets much of the acclaim around Plaza Bolivar, this plaza is also where you’ll find the Iglesia San Francisco de Asis. This church dates back to the 18th century and has been rebuilt many times throughout its history, most recently in 1998. On approach, your eyes will instantly be drawn to the iconic bell tower which towers over the rest of the neighbourhood. Inside the church, you can admire the altar, which was created from over 400 types of tropical cedar, all hand painted by Indigenous Panamanian artisans.

Plaza Bolivar was originally known as Plaza de San Francisco prior to 1883. This church is the reason for that.

Plaza de Francia

Moving to the neighbourhoods far southeast, you’ll come to my favourite part of Casco Viejo. The beautiful Plaza de Francia pays tribute to the initial role of the French in attempting to create the Panama Canal, and more importantly, commemorates the over 22,000 workers who died throughout the course of the project. The most prominent icon here is the obelisk style Panama Canal Monument, but there are also statues dedicated to various individuals from the time period. I was surprised to see one such bust dedicated to the Cuban doctor Carlos J Finlay here, but it turns out he was instrumental in discovering the role of mosquitos in transmitting yellow fever and malaria, two diseases that were responsible for many of the deaths of the workers in the Canal.

The Plaza de Francia gives you access to the Paseo Esteban Huertas. This elevated walkway runs around the south east corner of the old town, atop of a series of old dungeons used by the Spaniards. The dungeons have since been converted into shops and galleries, but you should spend your time here taking in the atmosphere along the promenade. You’ll find countless local vendors displaying their wares, and also get some of the best views across the water of Panama City’s modern skyline, a truly beautiful sight.

Ruins in Casco Viejo

While much of Casco Viejo has been beautifully restored, there are still a few ruins that can be found in the neighbourhood. On the way to the next plaza, you’ll come across two of them. In my view, considering how much effort is involved to get to Panama Viejo, these are the ruins to see on a short visit to the capital. First off, you’ve got the Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo. Dating back to 1678, this convent and church was destroyed by a fire in 1781 and stands in ruins apart from its flat arch (Arco Chato). Funnily enough, the arch played a key role in Panama being chosen for the site of the canal through Central America instead of Nicaragua – archeologists felt the fact that the arch had survived was a testament to a lack of earthquakes in the area.

Further west, you’ll come across the Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus. Another ruined church, this one was constructed in 1741 but also destroyed by fire and subsequent earthquake (looks like they were wrong about that geological risk assessment!). Despite this, its still incredibly beautiful and its remains are filled with symbolism. You can see numerous niches representing Panama’s marine riches throughout the structure. In its heyday, this church served as a Jesuit convent before becoming the first university in Panama.

Plaza Herrera

Continue west and you’ll reach the last plaza I spent time in while exploring Casco Viejo. Plaza Herrera is dedicated to General Tomas Herrera, a military leader who played a key role in the struggle for Panamanian independence from Colombia. A statue of the General on horseback can be found in the middle of the square. The plaza actually used to be used for bull fighting, though this was outlawed in 1928, and now is a relaxing park to sit in. There’s an abundance of excellent restaurants around Plaza Herrera, and one that I personally recommend dining in is Fonda Lo Que Hay, which serves contemporary takes on authentic Panamanian cuisine.

Just to the north of Plaza Herrera, you can see the Iglesia de la Merced (Church of the Mercy). You’re probably getting lost in all the churches throughout Casco Viejo by now, but this one is significant for being one of the sole surviving building from Panama Viejo. The church was transferred brick by brick to its new site between 1673 and 1680, following the destruction of the old settlement!

Iglesia de San Jose

Another church near Plaza Herrera that has a very interesting story is the Iglesia de San Jose. Built in 1612, destroyed and rebuilt several times since, this church’s exterior is nowhere near as elaborate as some of the others you’ll have seen throughout Casco Viejo. Head inside though and you’ll see its Golden Altar (Altar de Oro), which was salvaged from the sacking of Panama Viejo. While so many of the relics of the old city were lost in Henry Morgan’s pilfering, legend has it that this Altar was painted black upon word spreading of the attack and Morgan left it alone. Whether the legend is true or not is up for debate, but it makes for a great story all the same!

Practicalities for Visiting Casco Viejo

There’s a few things to have in mind when exploring Casco Viejo. The neighbourhood is extremely compact, so you don’t need to worry about getting around from site to site. Walking between the plazas is all part of the charm of spending time here. If you’re coming from further away though, I really recommend you use Uber to get into Casco Viejo. While the historic district has been restored and is heavily frequented by tourists (and police), the surrounding areas never recovered from the slums that formed in the 20th century.

El Chorillo in particular is one area I was told to avoid by all means during my stay in Panama City (and I was told this by numerous people). If you look at a map, you’ll see that it borders right against Casco Viejo. Police and locals will do their best to make sure you don’t wander too far west, but just be aware of your whereabouts when heading in that direction. They definitely aren’t parts of the city that you want to be walking through, even in a group as muggings are known to take place there. You’ll definitely know if you’re headed the wrong way as its a completely different atmosphere (and further west than the places I’ve covered in this post).

If you’re planning a trip to Panama and want to read more about the Casco Viejo, I highly recommend checking out the neighbourhood’s official website, as it contains even more information about the various sites found throughout. There’s also many guided walking tours that you can book for a comprehensive experience.

Have you found this guide to Casco Viejo useful if you’re planning a trip to Panama City? If I’ve missed any sights that you’d recommend checking out in this part of the city, let me know!