Lets face it. When you hear Panama, the first thing you think of is the Panama Canal, isn’t it? Before my trip to Panama, it was actually one of the only things I knew about the country. Naturally I had to see it for myself …
If there’s only one museum you get to during your visit to Panama City, make it the BioMuseo. Situated along the Amador Causeway, there’s no missing this distinctly abstract and colourful building. The BioMuseo is an extremely modern, interactive museum that focuses on Panama’s biodiversity …
Prior to spending time in Panama City, I didn’t fully comprehend the significance of Panama’s natural diversity. I certainly didn’t expect to get the chance to get into the wild a short distance from the heart of the city. If you’re spending more time in the country, you’ll likely get to see Panama’s vast and varied regions, but if you’re only around for a short stay, I highly recommend Punta Culebra Nature Center (Centro Natural Punta Culebra). Especially engaging for family travellers and animal lovers, this open air conservation reserve is the perfect place to see sloths, frogs, tropical fish and so much more. Add in the surrounding dry forest of the reserve and vista views out over the Panama Canal and Pacific Ocean, and you’ve got a great place to spend an hour or two in the Panama sun.
I couldn’t find much information about Punta Culebra prior to my visit, so in this post I’ll be covering its various exhibits.
Before diving into the wildlife you’ll see at the Nature Center today, I thought it would be a good idea to briefly cover the history of this unique set of islands off Panama City. There’s quite a few signs that cover this throughout the Center, so those interested in history will also benefit from visiting.
Punta Culebra is one of four islands at the mouth of the Panama Canal, the others being Naos, Perico and Flamenco. The islands have served as Panama City’s port for many centuries, with the large tidal variations and wide mudflats offshore making it impractical for ships to dock directly by the city itself. For this reason, the islands saw merchants and traders dock their vessels in colonial times before transferring to the mainland in smaller boats.
The islands’ isolation suited them to various roles over time. While in Panama, you’ll learn that yellow fever and malaria took many lives throughout the construction of the Panama Canal. During this period, a quarantine station was set up on Punta Culebra island to prevent those infected from spreading their the diseases to the rest of the population. The station was demolished in 1914, but you can actually still see the pilings of one of the quarantine structures at the Nature Center today.
In 1913, the islands were finally connected to Panama’s mainland with the construction of the Amador Causeway. The causeway was actually created from material excavated during the construction of the Panama Canal. It not only made access to the island easier, but also created a breakwater, protecting the entrance of the Canal from waves and sediment build-up. Shortly after this, the islands were converted into a US military outpost, though it was retired following World War 2.
The restrictions on accessing the islands during their military occupation indirectly bolstered their natural ecosystems. While much of the dry forests throughout Central America have been cleared for agriculture and development, they thrived on these isolated islands. This rich environment led to Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute creating a conservation and research station on Punta Culebra. In 1996, the Nature Center was finally opened to the public with a view to promoting biodiversity and conservation. The mission statement at Punta Culebra Natural Center is to share discoveries, spark curiosity and inspire learning about the wonders of tropical science!
Punta Culebra Nature Center is some 3.5 kilometres down the Amador Causeway. The causeway is a pleasant spot to walk along in Panama City, but you’ll need a set of wheels to at least get to the entrance. I had limited time to experience everything to city had to offer, so despite my hotel being a short distance from the start of the Causeway, I caught an Uber to Punta Culebra (its so affordable in Panama!). You can also get to Punta Culebra via the city’s Metrobus service, as there’s a bus stop about 250 metres away on Naos Island (in front of the Smithsonian Labs) There’s not a huge amount of signage marking the entrance to Punta Culebra, but you’ll know you’re there when you get to the Mi Ranchito restaurant.
Punta Culebra Nature Center is an incredibly affordable attraction, making it perfect for families on a nice day. You can pay the admission fee by cash or card. If you have accessibility issues, you should be aware that much of the reserve is covered in uneven terrain and therefore those in wheelchairs may not be able to experience most of the site.
You won’t need a huge amount of time dedicated to the Nature Center on your Panama City travel plans. I spent about an hour here and felt I saw everything I needed. For a more comprehensive experience, you might spend two hours at the most.
Entering Punta Culebra Nature Center, you’ll pass beaches and mangroves on your right before reaching the first major exhibit on the site. Just opposite the remnants of the old Quarantine Station is the indoor Amphibian Exhibit. This colourfully vibrant frog house contains a myriad of amphibious species, at all stages of life (including tadpoles). Frogs have played a central role in Panama’s ecosystems throughout history, and in addition to learning about the creatures themselves, the exhibit house contains information about the significance they had to pre-Columbian cultures in the region. Did you know that many of Panama’s ancient people decorated themselves in gold or shell frog figures?
When you think of tropical amphibians, one species that likely comes to mind is the poison dart frog. They’re here (among many others), and I found it interesting that unlike most amphibious species, they actually lay their eggs in the leaf litter to be cared for by the male, only for the female to take over when the eggs hatch, depositing her tadpoles into pools of water or trees and returning to feed them. Most frogs lay their eggs in water, with the hatching tadpoles having gills and a tail, before going through the metamorphosis process to become frogs.
I also was surprised to learn that while Panama is home to over 200 species of frogs, many are under threat of being wiped out by the chytrid fungus, thought to have been introduced from Africa. The Smithsonian Institute is carrying out important research at Punta Culebra to immunise the frog population so that we don’t lose more species. You can learn more about the important projects carried out by the Institute in the nearby Q?rioso exhibit.
Heading deeper into the reserve, you’ll find a hiking trail branching off to the left. This is where you’ll have the chance to escape into the type of tropical deciduous dry forest historically found of much of Panama’s Pacific Coast. Many years ago, dry forests like this were found all over the Pacific coast through Central America, but nowadays many have been cleared by humans. This demonstrates the importance of reserves such as Punta Culebra, where these environments can be protected, for the various species that are dependent upon them.
The dry forest at the Nature Center is small, but if you take your time to linger you might come across many of the animals that make their home here. Keep quiet, and you could see racoons, iguanas, toucans and so much more. Perhaps most sought after is the sloth, which can be found lazing around in the tree tops. They can be quite difficult to spot, especially so far below the tree tops, but the park rangers do a good job of pointing out where you can find them in the forest and will also tell you lots of fun facts about the species.
There’s also all kinds of interesting plant life throughout the dry forest trail. One species that I was especially fascinated by was the night blooming cactus. This cactus could be found growing on trees of all places! Cacti are known to thrive in dry conditions, and a trees branches are actually quite similar to deserts in that rain runs off quickly. The thick, waxy skin of these cacti adapt them to these conditions, helping them conserve water.
Punta Culebra Nature Center also highlights the array of aquatic life found in the waters of and surrounding Panama. There are a few marine exhibits throughout the reserve, but the focal point is the Aquaria Exhibition at the end of the island’s peninsular. This hexagonal building contains fish tanks displaying various aquatic environments. With Panama’s formation dividing the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea the emphasis here is on the difference between these two bodies of water and the species found within them. You’ll learn about the Caribbean’s constantly warm waters creating ideal coral growth conditions, hence the large amount of reefs found in the region. Meanwhile the vast Pacific Ocean’s reefs are being impacted by climate change, though there are some areas, such as the Gulf of Panama, where cool temperatures allow them to thrive.
As with the rest of Punta Culebra Nature Center, there is a strong focus on conservation here, and you can find information in the aquarium detailing the Institute’s research into coral evolution and ecology. Despite the fragility of these ecosystems, its thought that appropriate action by humans today could allow some reefs around the world to return to their original status.
Outside the mini-aquarium, you can fully take in the views of the Panama Canal’s mouth while reading the interpretive panels about Panama’s formation, the use of the Panama Canal by shipping vessels, and the migration of whales to Panamanian waters from both the north and south hemispheres. When you’re finished with all that, you can backtrack to the Echinoderm (starfish and cucumber) tank and touch pools and Coastal Fish exhibits to learn more about Panama’s aquatic life before departing Punta Culebra.
I found the Punta Culebra Nature Center to be an interesting place to visit for a quick trip in Panama City. With the Amador Causeway being a major attraction in itself, the reserve is quite accessible and one of the best ways to experience the wildlife of Panama if you’re not venturing out of the capital.
What interests you most about the various animals and ecosystems highlighted at Punta Culebra?
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I had so much fun on my visit to The Bahamas. While I spent most of my time on Paradise Island and the capital of Nassau, the undisputed highlight of my trip was a day spent in the Exuma Cays. This remote, picture perfect destination is the most well known part of the Bahamian ‘out islands’ and is a destination that should definitely be on your bucket list. The Exuma Cays were actually one of the main reasons I wanted to get to the Caribbean! Naturally, I was devastated when weather conditions caused my original Powerboat tour to be cancelled. It was a last minute splurge, but I booked a day trip with Bahamas Air Tours instead. I definitely don’t regret it. It was one of the most incredible days I’ve ever had. In this post, you’ll see why.
The Exumas are a set of islands in The Bahamas known for their vibrantly coloured waters, pure white beaches and abundant marine life. Stretching over 136 miles, this collection of islands and cays run northwest from the island of Greater Exuma, the largest in the region. The Exuma Cays are even more remote. Best known for their swimming pigs, these islands are only accessible by charter plane or boat. They are filled with private celebrity owned islands, interspersed by small local communities such as Staniel Cay, the hub for tourism in the area. The islands are some of the most beautiful that I have ever visited.
When I first booked my Exuma Cays day trip, I was told that we would be flying to Staniel Cay on a commercial flight operated by Flamingo Air from the Lynden Pindling International Airport’s domestic terminal. We were told to be at the airport prior to 7.00am to check in for the flight. The night beforehand however, I received a follow up email, indicating that we had been upgraded onto a charter flight from the nearby Jet Aviation Airport. This was a major upgrade, as we didn’t have to get to the airport as early, nor did we have to worry about liquid restrictions aboard the flight. I had booked the gold package, and was picked up from my Paradise Island resort at 7.20am. Its an extra $100, but considering it includes lunch, and transport to the airport in Nassau isn’t great, I think its worth paying for the upgrade.
After waiting around for our flight, we were finally set to board around 8.30am. I’ll admit that I was terrified when I first stepped onto the tarmac. We were flying in a tiny plane (my head touched the roof). I was petrified before taking off, but once we got in the air, that feeling quickly faded and I was able to enjoy the spectacular flight across the Bahamian islands and atolls. Forty minutes and a smooth landing later, we had arrived at Staniel Cay Airstrip and met our tour guides.
Staniel Cay may be the central hub of the Exuma Cays, but don’t let that fool you. Its a small community with just over one hundred residents! Landing at the airstrip, you walk right out onto the island – there’s no terminal here, just a sheltered waiting area with a nearby store and restroom facilities. All up, the community covers 2 square miles and was established in 1956. We would return to Staniel Cay a few times on our Exuma Cays day trip, though on arrival we walked down towards the water and boarded our boat. On board we were served drinks and snacks throughout the day. With only around 6 guests aboard each vessel, it was a very exclusive experience. It wasn’t long before we were in the hands of our trusted skippers and off to explore the Exumas’ natural beauty.
After taking to the waters, our first stop was Bitter Guana Cay, just to the south. This island is known for its community of Bahamian Rock Iguanas, a highly endangered species. We went in expecting to see lizards, but I wasn’t expecting them to be as large as they are! These reptiles are mostly around two feet in length (though they can get up to four), and can live for up to 40 years. They have distinctive ringed tails and brown and pink colours. What makes them so special is that they are thought to have evolved from other iguana subspecies (there are three others that can be found in The Bahamas) over 3 million years ago!
Walking amongst the iguanas along the beach was a memorable experience. They are used to human interaction and get quite close to visitors, though its important to remember that they are wild animals and therefore should be treated with respect. We were told to keep our fingers out of reach, just in case they were to take a bite! With that said, these iguanas are mostly herbivorous (though they will also feed on dead crabs and birds). Unfortunately they are also extremely endangered – it is estimated that there are only 5000 of these iguanas left in the wild. Their main threat is poaching, though this is thankfully now outlawed in The Bahamas.
After seeing the iguanas, we were off to our northern-most point on our itinerary – Compass Cay. This isolated marina is famous for being the place to swim with sharks! While you definitely shouldn’t be swimming with most kinds of sharks in The Bahamas, the ones at Compass Cay are nurse sharks. Unlike many of their relatives, nurse sharks lack powerful jaws and instead feed along the sea floor with small mouths on the bottom of their heads. They may be docile and even adorable, but you still don’t want be putting your hands underneath their mouths – their teeth are still sharp and capable of crushing coral and other shellfish.
The sharks at Compass Cay are protected, and this is enforced by the local residents. They can live up to 25 years and can reach 10 feet in length, weighing a whopping 200 to 300 pounds!
It took a bit of overcoming my fear to get in the water, but once I did, I loved having the sharks swimming around me. If you’re a bit afraid, you can always hang around the wharf. At high tide, the cleaning station is submerged underwater and the sharks are known to rest on it, giving you the chance to get up close without submerging your lower body in the shark filled waters.
From the sharks, we set off for the Exumas’ most revered sandbar. Out in Pipe’s Creek, this pristine area is filled with natural beauty in the form of exotic marine life and crystal waters. Pipe’s Creek is a network of shallow cays and sandbars, and is off limits for larger vessels that can’t navigate its waters. Its not uncommon for inexperienced boaters to get stuck here. Thankfully we had an excellent captain taking us through the shallow islets so that we could disembark onto the incredibly soft sands of this secluded destination.
Depending on the tides, the sandbar actually disappears and reforms throughout the course of the day. As with all the stops on this tour, when you get there will be influenced by the tide patterns.
Up next, it was time for the main attraction of the day – the Bahamas’ famous swimming pigs. Big Major Cay in the Exumas is the home of the original family of swimming pigs that The Bahamas have become known for. The tiny island actually receives more visitors than most of the rest that make up the country. There are about 25 pigs that live on the island, and they’ll come running into the water the moment your boat pulls in – they’ve been accustomed to people bringing food after all. While you can see swimming pigs elsewhere in The Bahamas, they aren’t always well cared for. Those at Big Major Cay are protected, and the local villagers from Staniel Cay have incorporated going out to look after them into their daily routine.
You’ll hear many stories about how the pigs got here. Some will say they were dropped off as livestock by sailors who planned on coming back for them but never returned, while others will say the pigs swam to Big Major Cay to escape a farm. The reality however, is that they originally resided on farms on Staniel Cay, but absolutely stunk the place out. The locals moved the pigs to this island around 10 minutes away, where the winds carried their smell away from the village.
Big Major Cay can get crowded as the swimming pigs are extremely popular. Going on a guided tour, the stops are structured in a way to navigate the crowds (boat captains talk to each other). I think thats why we got to the pigs later on in the day rather than first up. I won’t forget getting in the water and being surrounded by these pigs. They’re quite friendly, but get pretty snappy when they’re hungry. If you don’t have anything to offer them, open your hands widely to show that you’ve got nothing and they’ll back off. If you are planning on feeding the pigs, only use approved foods provided by your guide and get your hand away before the pigs get to their snack. Always remember that these are wild animals and should be treated as such.
We had one last stop planned before lunch, and left the pigs behind to snorkel in the waters of Thunderball Grotto. This was nothing short of incredible. Taking its name from its appearance in the 1965 James Bond film Thunderball (and also the subsequent Never Say Never from 1983), this grotto is one of the most legendary snorkelling destinations in The Bahamas. The grotto is inside a limestone rock just north of Staniel Cay and is filled with tropical fish including sergeant majors, angelfish and yellow tail snappers (just to name a few).
You have to be a decent swimmer to go inside the Grotto. We anchored by the rocks outside and waded our way under a low rock corridor into the vast open chamber inside. A small opening in the apex of the rock structure allows the sun to pass into the grotto, reflecting brilliantly on the bright blue waters, and also attracting so many marine species. I had tons of fun splashing around in the grotto with our group and a bunch of locals. Our guide also brought along some food to attract countless schools of fish, adding to the magic.
Leaving the grotto was another experience. While you can go out the same way you came, our guide took us to the ‘secret exit’. A small crescent shaped opening can be found underwater to the south of the cave’s main entrance. You have to dive under the water’s surface briefly to get through, and you’ll be back outside ready to board your boat.
After all that fun in the sun, we were getting hungry. Luckily lunch was up next as we returned to Staniel Cay, but this time docked in the heart of the village. Our guide led the way to the legendary Staniel Cay Yacht Club. This excellent restaurant and bar is a Bahamian institution, serving local cuisine and seafood. The ambience is something else, filled with sailing artefacts and flags to match the yachties, fishermen and vacationers that holiday in this remote community. Lunch was delicious. I highly recommend the conch. If you’ve booked the Gold package, your meal will be included. If not, you’ll still stop at the Yacht Club, but have to pay for your meal. Its another reason why I think the Gold package for the tour I did is worth it.
Before leaving the Exumas behind, we had one last stop, and it was a few short minutes away from Staniel Cay. The Bahamas is known for many sunken plane wrecks, but one of the most accessible is just a half mile away from the Yacht Club. Most of the vessels were drug runner planes from the 1970s and 80s, when the unpatrolled Bahamian airspace was frequently used in the trade between Colombia and Miami. The wreck we saw was relatively small, but very visible as it only gets to a maximum of 10 feet below the surface at high tide. Coral and fish now call the wreckage their home, so there’s plenty of sea life in the area. We didn’t spend long here, but there were other groups (presumably those staying in the Exumas) that got in the water and swam around.
We didn’t visit the most famous plane wreck in the Exumas. That one can be found off Norman’s Cay, a site infamous for being the home base of drug kingpin Carlos Lehder in the day of Pablo Escobar’s exploits. According to legend, the large vessel there was brought from Florida for sale to Lehder, however the drug lord wasn’t interested in purchasing it. Instead, the pilot had a few cocktails and got back in the air, only to crash right by the dock. He and his passenger were rescued, but it wasn’t long afterwards that the government cracked down on the drug trade and retook Norman’s Cay from the drug smugglers.
All good things have to come to an end, and after an unforgettable six hours exploring the Exuma Cays, our boats docked back where we began and we headed back to the airstrip. Waiting around for the same small plane that we came in, we enjoyed a bit of shade at the nearby shelter. When the plane arrived, we were all aboard and airborne within a few minutes. This time all my fears were gone and I throughly enjoyed the take off sequence and the rest of the flight back to Nassau. The day had been exhausting, but worth every dollar spent.
Back in Nassau, we were greeted by the driver who had collected us in the morning, and he gave us a brief tour of Nassau in the car before dropping us back off. I was back at Atlantis in plenty of time for dinner and thought this was an amazing way to experience a side of The Bahamas that is worlds away Paradise Island.
In case it wasn’t clear enough from this post, my day in the Exuma Cays with 3N’s Exuma Vacations was one of the best days I’ve ever had. If you’re travelling on your own or as a couple, I really recommend shelling out the cost of this trip when you’re in The Bahamas. Its an incredible way to see the Exumas on a tight schedule and really get a feel of the true Bahamas away from the mega-resorts. If you’ve been to the Exumas, I’d love to hear about your experience. What did you enjoy the most? Where would you recommend spending time if you had longer in this beautiful part of the world?
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