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Did you know that Antigua was home to the only Georgian era dockyard in the Western Hemisphere? Nelson’s Dockyard sits at English Harbour, to the south of the island. This part of the island makes for an interesting day trip regardless of where you’re staying in Antigua. Or if you’re already in English Harbour like I was, you can spend a bit of time at the dockyard to start the day before journeying further afield. Nelson’s Dockyard is a must on your Antiguan vacation. After all, it is the only UNESCO site in the entire country. History buffs and architecture admirers will love the chance to delve deeper into the past, and in this post I’m going to tell you about what there is to see here.
If you’re off to Antigua, take a moment to read about all the things you can do on this beautiful island. You can read my guide HERE.
Nelson’s Dockyard – The Basics
Where?Dockyard Drive, English Harbour, Saint Paul
When? The Dockyard is open daily from 8.00am to 6.00pm.
How much? General admission to the Dockyard costs $15.00 USDor $40.00 ECD.
How to get there: The entrance to Nelson’s Dockyard is a short ten minute walk from the Antigua Yacht Club at English Harbour. If you’re coming from further afield, you’ll probably need to drive, take a taxi or organise your own transport with a tour. Driving from St John’s takes about 40 minutes (follow All Saints Road).
Nelson’s Dockyard dates back to Antigua’s British Colonial history. While English Harbour was first acquired by the British Crown in 1725, the area was mostly neglected until the 1740s. As the French expanded their Caribbean territory and secured the islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique with their own fleets, the British recognised the strategic location of this harbour in the south of Antigua, with its narrow bays surrounded by highlands. Having fallen by the wayside for years, development was needed to hold the Royal Navy. Work on Nelson’s Dockyard subsequently began, with 130 African slaves providing the majority of the labour.
By the 18th century, English Harbour had expanded significantly, and the Dockyard gave employment to hundreds of workers, while skirmishes at sea intensified with the French. With the Royal Navy’s Caribbean Fleet based at the Harbour until 1854, it became renowned as one of the most secure outposts in the entire British Empire. As its status grew, so too did the Dockyard, with the majority of its buildings being constructed from 1780 to 1820 to accommodate its increased usage.
Despite military clashes in the region becoming a less common occurrence following Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo, Nelson’s Dockyard continued to service the Royal Navy until vessels became larger and they could no longer navigate into the waters of English Harbour. As a result, the Dockyard closed in 1889. It fell into ruin shortly thereafter, only to face a revival effort that culminated with the site being declared a historic site in 1961. The subsequent reopening saw the establishment of the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park in 1984, and recognition by UNESCO in 2016. Today, Nelson’s Dockyard remains in use, although these days luxury yachts and catamarans tend to dock in its waters.
Now Who is Nelson?
The Dockyard is named after Horatio Nelson, the man who eventually led the British to victory at the Battle of Trafalgar in 1805. He came to Antigua aboard the HMS Boreas on 28 July 1784. Nelson was sent to the Caribbean to enforce the terms of the Navigation Act, which barred non-British ships from trading with Britain’s colonial territories in the region. As a result, Nelson’s reputation with the local merchants was tenuous to say the least, as they often sought to trade with powers such as the newly independent United States.
Nelson only spent 3 years in Antigua and he famously referred to the posting as an “infernal hellhole”. Despite this, his tenure coincided with the major expansion of the Dockyard, and thus his name became associated with it.
Things to Know When Visiting Nelson’s Dockyard
I visited Nelson’s Dockyard fairly early in the morning, arriving at the site just after 9.00am. It was easy for me to do this as my hotel was only a short walk away. It was pretty quiet and there were only a few other people wandering around the grounds, so it made for an enjoyable atmosphere, checking out the buildings, reading about the history and just admiring the waterfront views with a sense of solitude and tranquility. I spent about an hour looking around at my own pace before grabbing brunch at the nearby cafe. In many ways, it was the perfect place to enjoy before venturing to other spots across the island later in the day.
There’s nowhere to buy tickets to Nelson’s Dockyard online. You have to pay in cash at the entrance, though you can pay the fee in either US or East Caribbean dollars. One thing that you should know is that your entry to the Dockyard also grants you complimentary entrance to Shirley Heights Lookout, The Blockhouse and the Dow’s Hill Interpretation Centre. I didn’t get to the latter two on my stay in Antigua, but Shirley Heights offers an amazing vantage point over English Harbour and is one of the best places to watch a sunset on the island.
The Dockyard Buildings
Nelson’s Dockyard contains a myriad of buildings dating back to the latter half of the 18th century. One thing that is really cool is the way in which they have been repurposed for modern use, allowing sailors in the region to utilise the historic dockyard’s facilities. I visited Antigua during the low season, so many of them were closed, but it was still great to wander about the grounds and read the informative panels around the dockyard. One of the best examples of an old building put to modern use was the Saw Pit Shed. Built in 1769, this is the oldest building still standing in Nelson’s Dockyard and was originally used for cutting timber. It has since been converted into a sail repair shed. Meanwhile the nearby Joiner’s Loft is still used for its original purpose.
Other buildings in the dockyard have been converted into restaurants, bars and shops. The Pay Master’s Office now contains a supermarket, though the two storey structure is perhaps more notable for being the first building on site to be restored and used as a home in 1947.
Another repurposed structure in Nelson’s Dockyard is the Copper and Lumber Store. Constructed in 1789, this warehouse was originally used to store copper sheets. Historically, the upper floor was used as a dormitory for seamen who slept in hammocks. Today its a hotel containing 14 elegant suites and an event space.
The Dockyard Museum
The centrepiece of Nelson’s Dockyard today is the small museum housed within the Naval Officer’s and Clerk’s House. This two storey building (dating back to 1855), with its floors painted red to conceal the spill of blood, is actually the most recently constructed house in the Dockyard, . Entrance to the Dockyard Museum is free with your ticket (though donations are encouraged). Inside you’ll see an array of displays and information on the site’s history.
The museum’s ground floor takes you through the development of the Dockyard and provides an overview of some of the people that worked on the site. Highlights of the collection include a scale model of the Dockyard and a number of replica ships that would have docked here in bygone centuries. Upstairs, the exhibits focus on the military history of English Harbour and the story of Admiral Nelson. There’s more ships and artefacts to look at here (including a few figurehead models that were rather interesting) and a prominent bust of the man for whom the Dockyard was named. The Museum is fairly basic, and you’ll spend half an hour at the most inside, but its where you’ll learn the most about the history of the Dockyard.
The Dockyard Museum also contains a small gift shop, and is right next to the Bakery, where you can pick up a pastry or two.
Other Notable Sights
There are numerous cannons, anchors and other paraphernalia located around Nelson’s Dockyard. One such cannon is positioned to guard the entrance to the Admiral’s House. Further protection over the Harbour was ensured by the fort overlooking the waters.
Closer to the waterfront, you’ll see two black and white capstans jutting out of the ground. These were used to pull docked vessels halfway over, allowing for cleaning and repairs to be carried out on their otherwise submerged hulls. I doubt these are still used today, but they offer yet another glimpse into a bygone era.
The Sail Loft Pillars are probably the most famous structures in the entire Dockyard. Built in 1797, this cluster of 14 stone columns originally supported a hut used for sail repair. When the building was destroyed by an earthquake and subsequent hurricane, only the columns remained. As the Age of Sail came and went, the columns were sealed to protect them from the elements and today make for a beautiful backdrop when walking by the water. The nearby cafe by the Admiral’s Inn has a terrace overlooking the pillars and the bay. They cook an excellent English Breakfast, and I highly recommend stopping here after a tour of the Dockyard.
Before travelling to Antigua, Nelson’s Dockyard was the one place I was most interested in seeing. In hindsight, it wasn’t the best thing I did on the island, but I still enjoyed it. Staying in English Harbour, it was a great place to knock over early in the day, learn some history, then grab a feed. If you’re coming from further away, I’d try to tee up a trip to the Dockyard with Pigeon Point Beach and Shirley Heights, as they’re all in the general vicinity. Don’t make a trip across the island just to see the Dockyards on their own, but enjoy English Harbour and all its surroundings. Its a beautiful part of a gorgeous island.
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Whether you’re making a trip specifically to explore the island state of Hawaii, or you’re stopping over on your way somewhere else, you’ll instantly fall in love with the charm of Oahu. While its not the largest of the Hawaiian islands, its the most well known and home to 85% of the state’s population. The city of Honolulu is the capital of Hawaii and is located on the south-east part of Oahu. Its also where you’ll fly into Hawaii internationally (or from the mainland USA). However most travellers tend to stay a little further east in Waikiki. For the purpose of this itinerary, its a great place to base yourself. So lets take a look at how to spend your time on this magical island, the centrepiece of Hawaii.
Day One: Waikiki
You’ll want to make an early start on your first day before the tropical heat kicks in. Grab breakfast then set out for a hike up to Diamond Head Crater. The trail does involve climbing a fair few stairs as you ascend 170 metres, but if you’re doing it early in the day it shouldn’t be too difficult. The hike takes around 45 minutes each way from the trail entrance and you’ll be rewarded with some of the most panoramic views over Honolulu, as well as the crater which occupies the centre of a dormant volcano.
When you get back from your hike, enjoy lunch and spend the rest of the day with a bit of relaxation along Waikiki Beach. There’s plenty to see and do here. Enjoy the warm Pacific ocean at the Kuhio Beach Park and take it easy along the beachfront. Just a few spots of interest nearby include the Royal Hawaiian Hotel for its unique pink Art-Deco design and the beautiful Kap’iolani Regional Park. Or if shopping is more your style, take a ride to Ala Moana Center, a four story mall with all your retail needs.
As the evening sets in, you’ll want to head back towards the beach and find the famous Duke Kahanamoku Statue. As the conch shell sounds around 6.00pm, you’ll be able to watch an authentic torch lighting and hula show to experience Hawaiian culture. Once the show is over, its time for a late dinner. You’ll find plenty of dining options in Waikiki, being the tourist hub that is is. If you’re after a big feed, the Cheesecake Factory is excellent. You’ve earned it after the day’s adventure.
Day Two: Pearl Harbor & Honolulu
Today you’ll be able to learn about the events that took place during World War II in Hawaii. The words Pearl Harbor have become synonymous with U.S history, and today you’ll be visiting the site of the Japanese attack that took place on December 7, 1941.
You can arrange your trip to Pearl Harbor through a tour company or independently. Either way, you’ll want to spend plenty of time here as there is a lot to see. Make sure you take the boat out to the USS Arizona Memorial. The Memorial floats above the remains of the battleship of the same name that was sunk in the Japanese attack, resulting in the loss of 1,178 lives. Heading out onto the memorial requires a timed ticket, so book this well in advance.
While you’re here, take a tour of the Battleship Missouri Memorial, the refurbished battleship that saw action in three different conflicts. The Pacific Aviation Museum here is also a worthwhile experience if you have time. Here you’ll find numerous aircraft on display and see the very hangars that were bombed in the Pearl Harbor attacks. On your way back from Pearl Harbor, stop in at the National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific (also known as Punchbowl). Pay your respects to the 53,000 veterans buried here that served in World War I, World War II, the Korean War and the Vietnam War.
Head back to Waikiki via Honolulu. Don’t miss the Iolani Palace. This significant building originally served as the palace of the royal family of the Kingdom of Hawaii. Its the only royal residence in the United States. Out the front of the palace, you’ll find the King Kamehameha Statue, commemorating the ruler that united the Hawaiian islands into a single kingdom, ending years of conflict.
Day Three: Exploring the rest of Oahu
Today you’re going to venture further out and explore some of the other parts of Oahu. There’s a lot to see on the island, so today will be a busy one. Again, today’s tour can either be arranged as part of an organised trip, or you can rent a car and drive yourself.
After eating breakfast, set off for the touristy, but popular, Dole Plantation. You won’t find any pineapple fields here, but the famous destination is built on the site of an old plantation. Aim to get to the Plantation around 9.30am for opening so you’ll have enough time to spend here (it will take you around 40 minutes to get to the Plantation from Waikiki). Once you’ve arrived enjoy a ride on the Pineapple Express train and learn all about the significance of pineapples to Hawaiian culture. You’ll also want to explore (or get lost in) the world’s largest maze. If you’re a fellow Disney Parks enthusiast, you’ll also need to grab a Dole ice cream before leaving (Adventureland calls!).
Next up is a brief stop at Sunset Beach Park near the town of Haleiwa. Its about 25 minutes drive north from the Plantation. Its too early to catch a sunset, but its still a very pretty spot along the north western coastline of the island. Go for a quick stroll or take a dip in the crystal blue waters that define the Hawaiian islands.
Your next stop is another 20 minute drive as you traverse the northern shore of the island. Make your way to the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie along the eastern coast. This excellent tourist hotspot provides an insight into Pacific island life and culture. You’ll be able to explore six different ‘villages’ representing life on varying islands across the Pacific. The Center opens at midday so you should aim to get here early afternoon. Make sure you take a canoe ride along the riverbed (admire the turtles!) and stop in for the Luau traditional feast. There’s so much to see and do here that it will easily take up your afternoon.
If you’ve got time on your way back to Waikiki, stop in at the Nu’uanu Pali Lookout. The lookout is up in the mountains with view over Honolulu from below. The site also has an important place in history, as these very cliffes were the sight of a significant battlefield between island tribes in 1795. The bloody war ultimately resulted in King Kamehameha I (we saw his statue earlier!) rising up and in turn uniting the tribes of Oahu into one Kingdom. In addition to its historical significance, the lookout is also an amazing spot to take in the views before heading back to Waikiki for the evening to finish up your three days in Hawaii.
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Located only 6km away from Nadi International Airport, Denarau is your one stop shop for all things luxury on your Fijian holiday. Denarau is a popular destination for families and couples alike seeking some much needed downtown just 20 minutes away. While staying at one of Denarau’s five star resorts will give you little insight into the true Fiji, it provides a great base (albeit with a hefty price tag!) to explore. Or you can just relax in those deck chairs by the pool too. There’s plenty to do to fill in your stay in this part of Fiji and in this post I’ll cover a few of them.
1. Take a trip to the islands
Staying in Denarau gives you easy access to the chains of islands off the western coast of Viti Levu. A number of day trips are available from Denarau Harbour, where you’ll be able to board a catamaran and venture out to any number of tropical havens among the crystal blue waters (that you incidentally won’t find at Denarau itself). The Mamanuca Islands are quite close, and will only take you around 30 minutes to 1.5 hours to get to, depending on your island of choice. You’ll be able to spend a relaxing day filled with water sports, snorkelling and beach life.
Further out (at least 2 hours cruising), the Yasawa Group is more isolated and consists of volcano shaped islands, picturesque beaches and an escape from mass tourism. Both island chains are well worth a trip to experience the difference.
2. Splash around at Big Bula
Need to get that adrenaline level up after spending a day by the resort pool? Look no further than Big Bula Waterpark! This complex is filled with waterslides, jumping castles, climbable trees and a children’s splash area. The best part is, its located on Denarau island itself. This means getting there is an easy walk from your resort, or quick ride on the Bula Bus. It may not be as large as a Disney waterpark, but a day at Big Bula is a day of fun for all ages.
3. Experience nearby Nadi
Most tourists seem to view Nadi as nothing more than their arrival and departure point, with most flights arriving at this international airport. If you’re staying nearby however, a day trip into Nadi town is well worth it. Crossing the causeway back into Viti Levu will bring you out of that resort bubble and give you a chance to experience contemporary Fijian life. If you make the short ride back into town, I’d recommend checking out the local markets. There’s plenty of fresh produce to be found, as well as authentic souvenirs for purchase.
While you’re in Nadi, also make sure you visit the Sri Siva Subramaniya temple. There are many Hindu temples in Fiji, with it being the second most predominant religion in the country, however this beautiful temple is the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. The temple is dedicated to Lord Murugan, god of seasonal rains. The bright colours and traditional Dravidian architecture right out of India are a sight to behold. Just make sure you dress modestly – no shorts or skirts. Admission is around $5 FJD.
4. Travel the Sigatoka River
The best way to really experience Fijian culture is to take a trip to a local village. If you make enquiries at your resort or Port Denarau, you should be able to organise a tour that will give you this opportunity – its rude to just show up unannounced. I’d really recommend checking out the day trips offered by Sigatoka River Safari. These half day adventures bring you out to Sigatoka (about an hour south along the Coral Coast) for a jet boat ride up the crystal clear river. As you pass the fertile river banks, you’ll eventually reach a local village. Here you’ll partake in a Kava Ceremony (a staple of Fijian life), followed by a village tour and traditional Fijian lunch. A great way to spend a morning if you ask me!
5. Explore the Garden of the Sleeping Giant
Less than thirty minutes north of Nadi, the Garden of the Sleeping Giant is a place filled with natural beauty. Surrounded by over 2000 species orchids, flowers and tree life, you’ll make your way to a lily pond. At this point, a boardwalk branches around the pond taking you through the gardens and among the giant tree roots and vegetation. You can be through the whole of the garden in about 30 minutes if you rush, but you could spend longer if you’re on Fiji time and taking it all in. If you’re into botanic gardens, make sure you visit the Garden of the Sleeping Giant.
Speaking of which, what is this Sleeping Giant? The garden is named after the mountain nearby. From some angles, it does in fact look like a sleeping giant. The more you know.
6. Bathe in the Sabeto Hot Springs
Not far from the Garden of the Sleeping Giant, the Sabeto Hot Springs give you the chance to relax in a whole new setting. A few hours bathing at the Sabeto Hot Springs will surely leave you feeling rejuvenated and refreshed. Who needs expensive resort spas when you can lather up in a natural mud pit and washing it off in 40 degree (Celsius) geothermal hot pools. You can even follow it up with a local massage. Visiting the Hot Springs is definitely a unique way to relax in Fiji.
7. Enjoy the resort on Fiji Time
Lets face it, if you’re staying at a luxury resort on Denarau, you’re going to want to enjoy some down time. There’s nothing wrong with that – you can here to relax after all! Go for swim in one of the many pools shared between the resorts, play a game of golf on the impressive course, or work on your tan by the beach with a cocktail in hand. Or head into the marina for souvenir shopping and excellent restaurants. Fiji is all about relaxing and taking life slowly. You’re on Fiji time after all – enjoy it!
So there you have it…
…just 7 ways to spend your Fijian vacation. If you’ve more time, you might want to take a trip along the Coral Coast, explore some of the outer islands, or spend some time in Suva. No matter how you spend your time in Fiji, you’re bound to have a great time in this tropical paradise.
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